The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



259. Dad - part 2


Book 10



"When evening comes, I return home and go into my study. On the threshold I strip off my muddy, sweaty, working clothes and put on my robes of court and palace. And in this graver dress, I enter the antique courts of the ancients and am welcomed by them."



Niccolo Macchiavelli - on his days at his villa in Sant Andrea in Percussina





Dad - part 2





Monday am and I drop dad at Florence station, Santa Maria Novella, for his week at the beach.



Friday am and I make the drive down to San Vincenzo to meet up with him. Unfortunately the weather has been disappointing all week and today is overcast too. We meet up and walk into the town for a browse at the shops. We find a cozy bar on the beach for lunch. Everybody is having ribollita, (a winter dish!) so I order one for dad. In the afternoon we drive up to Populonia and the fortress. The little town is packed (due to the bad weather) and the views are spectacular. Afterwards we drive back down for our visit to the Archaeological park at Baratti. 





Usually we're here for the beach when it's too hot to visit, but today is perfect. It's a huge site where there used to be an iron works. We go on the 'iron way' and then have a guided tour of the Eruscan  tombs. A very cultural afternoon. 







In the evening we end up at the Number One Pizza place as several other restaurants are full. We enjoy a great fish dish and some nice white wine.





Sat. 3 and again the weather is overcast, but in true English fashion we are not deterred. There is still plenty to do in this beautiful area besides sitting on the beach! First stop is Bolgheri. The four kilometre drive down the cypress avenue is impressive. We wander round the town and indulge in some wine tasting and enjoy a coffee in an outside bar. Our next stop is Castagneto Carducci - via a gorgeous road I've never taken before, passing through the vineyards of Ornellaia. We stroll through Castagneto and stop for a cheese, ham and wine lunch. We have time for a visit to Massa Marritima, only my second time here. Fabulous, medieval streets and superb crafty shops make for a great afternoon. In the evening we have booked a table at the 'Ombrone' restaurant in Suvereto. We check out the town first and have an aperitivo before settling down in this very smart restaurant. The wine list is obscenely expensive (four times the list prices) but the food is pretty sensational. I have the papardelle with wild boar and escalopes of beef with a great gorgonzola and pine nut sauce. Dessert is a bit wicked too, chocolate millefoglie mmm


Sun. 4 and finally the sun has appeared! So after breakfast we hit the beach at Rimigliano. At lunch time we move on to Baratti, Where my good friends, Nadia and Alberto and the gang are (as usual). We pop off to buy a huge porchetta roll and then enjoy an afternoon of sun bathing and swimming.


And so my dad's 'Tuscan Adventure' is over... two weeks of sightseeing and feasting 'Italian style'. We drive back to Florence and he packs up and I drive him back to Florence airport where I bid him farewell...





(Original journal entry no: 314-321 02-04/06/2006)

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