The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



Showing posts with label Sassetta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sassetta. Show all posts

159. Casonzoli - Sassetta, with Saverio and Pina

Saturday

This weekend one of our good friends, Saverio and his wife, Pina have invited us to their lovely farm in the picturesque Sassetta on the Tuscan coast. Annette hasn't seen Saverio for five months as he has had a double attack of cancer and some major surgery. He's lost twenty kilos and nearly died, but fortuntely now is making a good recovery.

An early start on the Saturday morning means we have several hours to relax on the beach before joining our hosts. We decide on Riva degli Etruschi, which turns out to be our last visit of the summer. As ever it's a sunny morning, but the sea a bit cooler. We enjoy our morning and packed lunch and then head up the hill to Sasetta to meet Saverio. It's great to see him in such good spirits after his operation, he looks a lot thinner and treats us to a pre-dinner prosecco at his local bar. He escorts us to his farmhouse to a waiting Pina. She has been busy preparing a banquet for this evening with her sister and brother-in-law. the farm looks great, Saverio has cleared some ground ready to plant some new olive trees and he shows us some other fruit trees and picks us some figs and pears. the chickens are running all over the place and we fire up his new outdoor oven, which he has had built along with a large outside seating area and is the size of a small house! 
We catch up on all the latest gossip before beginning our feast...

The menu goes something like this...

Home made schiacciata (which Annette has helped to make)
Cucumber relish and pecorino cheese
ham and cream canelloni
Baked Cinghiale and roast potatoes
Chestnuts soaked in rum
freshly picked pears and more pecorino

All washed down with our Vernaccia di San Gimignano white and Nipozzano red wines

A wonderful 'Al Fresco' evening with great company and food.







Sunday

Am and we drive to nearby Castagneto Carducci for a cappuccino and pastry breakfast in an outside bar. I indulge in a little wine tasting and purchase a couple of bottles of the local red  Bolgheri wine. On our drive back to Sasetta we bump into Giovanni, a local steel worker we met at Saverio's May 1st party last year. He treats us to a prosecco and a little pre-lunch gossip. Pina has returned to the farm with her sisters and is cooking up a banquet lunch to compete with last nights feast.

Menu no. 2

Antipasto- Prawn cocktail and anchovies

Primo - Farfalle with Scorfano fish

Secondo - Mormore fish and potatoes

Dessert - pears, fresh figs, chocolate cake and Spumante.

It was Saverio's birthday last week so we raise our glasses in a toast...

Happy birthday Saverio!

Suvereto and Bolgheri

And so it's goodbye to Saverio and Pina. We promise to come back and help tyhem with the olive harvest... we drive on to a small town called Suvereto, which turns out to be a real gem of a place. There is a Sunday market on, so the walled town is packed. We meet a Scottish guy who lives here, called Alan. He is selling little wooden toys on one of the stalls. We stop at an outside bar and enjoy a glass of wine from local winery, 'La Tua Rita' and soak up the great atmosphere here. 

Next we drive onto the town of Bolgheri. Even though we've driven down the famous avenue of cypresses several times we've never actually been to the town at the top. Today we fix that and very pretty it is too! There are some little windy streets and several small squares with many enotecas selling the famous Bolgheri wine, the Giosue Carduuci museum and some pretty impressive views of the countryside. We have a pleasant time here before heading home after our wonderful weekend.

96. Festa della Cacciatore - Sassetta


Another invitation from Annette's student, (assistant to the Tuscan minister for education and ex mayor of Sasetta) Saverio. This time it's to the annual hunter's festival in Sasetta down on the Tuscan coast. The festival is on Saturday and Sunday and he has invited us to stay in his farmhouse.

A nice leisurely midday start and we arrive at around 3pm. I disappear into Castagnetto Carducci for an initiation into the delights of Bolgheri wines and lose all track of time!



The festival is a 10-minute walk into town and it looks like everybody has turned up. The idea of the festival is to raise money for the local hunting society, but I suspect it's also a good excuse for the whole town to have a knees up! We take our place amongst the locals on long wooden benches and tuck into the fruits of their labour... wild boar, pheasant and venison! washed down with free-flowing red wine of course.



Afterwards there is traditional dancing until the wee small hours, with many showing their skills on the dance floor. It's a wonderful evening with everyone, young and old, enjoying themselves . No trouble, drunkenness or stupidity... a million miles from England. We stagger home some time after 1am in total darkness, no street lights here! and collapse into bed.



The following morning at breakfast Saverio and his wife Pina have invited us to stay for lunch, an offer we cannot refuse. So at 1 o'clock they arrive at the farm laden with several dishes which turns out to be a 5-course meal! All fish and all incredible... we sit outside in the bright sun, being shown the ultimate hospitality, I think we've found our adoptive parents!





At around 4 we bid our fond farewells and head to the beach. The park of Rimigliano just north of San Vincenzo is the chosen destination and we enjoy a couple of hours cooling down in the Tyrrhenian sea. Before our drive home we pop into San Vicenzo to check out Italy's pemier restaurant, the Gamberro Rosso and also stop off at San Guido, home of the famous'Sassicaia' wine...

(Original journal entry 10/9/03)