The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



111. Living in the City

After only five months in the house from hell we're on the move again! We've been offered the choice of two flats in the centre of Florence. On Friday we went to look at both of them. One was in the suburbs to the west of the city near viale Talenti, a nice cosy flat courtesy of work colleague, Jane. The other one we find through one of my private students, the Verdinis. It's in Corso Italia, behind the American Embassy, next to the Teatro Communale. It's dead posh and right in the historic centre of Florence! Too hard to pass up...

Moving date is February 1st. So we need to get packing! All the travelling has been killing us and while we've enjoyed Montefiridolfi, the village and the friendly people, Miriam's house was too big, cold, old and too full of her junk.

110. Bagno Vignoni and San Quirico



New Year's eve and day are spent tucked up at home with prosecco and toblerone and of course fireworks! Four out of the first five days of the new year are sunny... welcome back to Italy! We venture out for a few walks in the nearby countryside. Today is a beautiful day, blue skies and bright sun, perfect for a trip south to the hot thermal springs. This year we've decided to return to Bagno Vignoni and pack our towels and swimming costumes just in case we get the urge and head towards Siena.


We enjoy the wonderful rolling hills of the val d'orcia dotted with farmhouses and cypress trees. As we approach we can see the hot steam rising from the 52° C outdoor swimming pool...This year we can afford to come in and have a dip... it's heaven!  The scenery is breathtaking too, amongst the surrounding hills and the view towards Rocca d'orcia.                                                            

After our long soak we check out San Quirico, it's small, but very pretty and as the light fades we vow to return in the springtime...




(Original journal entry 5/1/04)



109. Grey, poo, rain and Eastenders

It can only be England!

We're loaded up with about 40 presents, including 4 panettone, 6 bottles of wine, off to the land of the eternal grey, rain, poo and Eastenders! Oh and the most often quoted phrase 'The weather isn't usually this bad' - (Yes it is, I know, I lived there for 30 years!) Of our 7 days, all 7 are grey and raining! All day and all night! Only on the Sunday does the sun show its face (in between showers). Our departure and journey go smoothly, despite planned bus strikes in Italy and Bin Laden terrorist attack threats in London. We pick up our hire car and drop friends Alison and Piero off at Kingston, before heading down to Worthing. in our blue Seat Leon.

It's kind of déjà vu, as our last visit to the UK was the same week a year ago. Nothing has changed much... only the kids, with Natalie and Kelly Anne most notably.


Tue 23- We settle into our routine of bath (as we only have a shower in Italy) bacon and eggs and visiting family. Unfortunately no Fast Show, Only Fools or Mark and Lard this year. A visit to Smiths to buy some cds and book-of -the-year contender, 'Crap Towns- the 50 worst places to live in England' surprisingly, Worthing is not included!

Wed 24- We have a nice walk up Honeysuckle lane with Ruth and Alison and the dogs, dodging the poo, but not the grey skies!

Dinner is at Ruth's and I catch up on the social life of Rory, oh to be 19! Oh yes, today is my birthday - 35...


Thur 25 - Christmas day and lunch is at my mum's with my dad and brother, Carl who is down from Devon. In the evening Chas and me challenge the ladies to a friendly game of bridge.

Fri 26 - Boxing day is 'taxi service day'. I drop Carl off at Lisa's and see my grandma and drop her off at Fiorella's and pop in to see the family. Evening is at Rita's, with curry courtesy of Shafiques and entertainment courtesy of Natalie and Holly!

Sat 27- Surprise, surprise it's raining again - all day! But we have a lunch date with mum, Rita and the kids at Worthing's premier attraction... the bowling alley! Burgers and fries are followed by some bowling fun. A pop into town, where Annette purchases some Next bargains in the sales and then we're off to Hove, actually! Where my grandma is treating us to a Greek feast at 'The Meze house'... and very tasty it is too!

Sun 28- We're at Lisa's for lunch, with Joanna, Jamie and the boys and back at Ruth's for a 'last supper'.

Mon 29 - We're all packed up and only Leonie  to see... (Phil has gone to California) she's with Phil's ex, Marie-Noel and treats us to a Christmas concert recital, lecture on the solar system! All this from the 5-year-old star of the Christmas edition of Eastenders.. We watch Leonie come on and pull Santa's beard!

(Original journal entry 29/12/03)

108. The Chianti trail. Greve, Gaiole and Castelnuovo Beradenga

We're off to England on Monday and so it's our last chance to buy presents. Greve market and a drive deep into Chianti to Gaiole to find the perfect Chianti Classico for Phil is the plan...

We find a packed Greve market and pick up some great gifts, including a rug for us! Lunch is the traditional 'porchetta' roll and then we're on our way to Gaiole.




We've been recommended to try a couple of wines and have decided to visit a couple of estates, Castello di Brolio and Castello di Ama. Unfortunately everyone seems to be closed up for the winter, so we decide to carry on to Chianti's most southerly town, Castelnuovo Bearadenga. It's very small and slightly disappointing, but we do find a bottle of 'Castello di Ama' 3-red glass winning wine for Phil.

We are also rewarded with some superb views of Mt. Amiata and the rolling green Sienese hills on a gloriously warm, sunny December day, with the sky as blue as a summer's day...



(Original journal entry 20/12/03)