77. Bruno Magli's cars and Caratello

Book 4

May is now in full swing. After our scorching heatwave temperatures are back to a more civilized and bearable 25-30°C. All the summer concert schedules are in, tickets bought, holiday to Sardinia is booked and only two weeks till the outside pool is open...

This weekend we've planned to check out this wine festival in nearby San Casciano. Saturday and I'm working until 5 oclock, but downstairs in Piazza Strozzi there's a surprise car exhibition... Shoe entrepeneur extrordinaire, Bruno Magli is opening a new shop in Florence and to show how wealthy he already is, has decided to bring a few of his classic cars, which is fine by me... It's far too difficult trying to leave without looking at all some incredible pieces. 1920's and 30's Fiats, Alfa Romeos, Lancias a wonderful Bugatti and Aston Martin and cool Ferrari 275 GTB... I wonder if he'll mind me borrowing one for the weekend?

After finally tearing myself away I catch the end of the FA cup final, a rather dull 1-0 win for the Arsenal over an unlucky Southampton. We head on to San Casciano and arrive some time after 7 pm. We discover the wine festival finishes at 8.00 and so afeter checking out the wine on offer, decide to come back tomorrow, a little earlier!

As it's far too late to start cooking we stop at a very cosy looking restaurant near the villa, called Caratello and enjoy a nice hearty meal. I have the papardelle with a lamb ragu and Annette linguine with lobster!

Here is the restaurant's website

http://www.caratello.com/

(Original journal entry 17/5/03)

76. Iris Garden II and Greve flower market

It's only the beginning of May and already Florence is in the middle of a 32° C heatwave and there is still a month to go before the local outdoor pool opens...

Last year we went to see the Iris garden a little late and most of the flowers were nearly finished, so this year we've come earlier and it's much better. We come after work on Saturday and as we stroll round most of the flowers are just about hitting their peak and what a sight it is... Irises of every conceivable colour, beautifu!

Afterwards we cool down with a refreshing 'granita' which is a kind of crushed ice slush puppy, but made with fresh lemons... just the job! Followed by a walk up to San Miniato al Monte, where we enjoy the spectacular views of the city.

Sunday and a short drive into Greve and more flowers! There is a flower market and the triangular piazza is covered with them, making for quite a sight. We purchase a rather nice blue 'ortensia' that's hydrangea to you! Which will go nicely on our terrace...

Here finishes book 3 of my journal and I end it dreaming of summer, holidays, concerts, swimming and the like!





(Original journal entry 4/5/03)

75. Castagneto Carducci and Baratti

After yesterday’s festivities we have some time to explore the local area. First stop is just down the road at Castagneto Carducci, a small, well-know town of about 9,000 residents. Originally called just ‘Castagneto’ it was re-named Castagneto Carducci in 1907 in honour of Italian National Poet Laureate, Giosue Carducci who came to live here in his youth.

There is a bust of him outside the town hall at the top of the main pedestrian road. I can certainly see where he got his inspiration from, it’s a gorgeous hill-top town with views down to the Tyrrhenian sea. There are lots of interesting artsy, crafty type shops displaying some very individual pieces.

Unfortunately yesterday’s blistering heat has failed to reappear, so I only have a brief dip in the sea at Marina di Castagneto. No matter as there is plenty more to do in this area.

We drive on to Baratti, where there is a picturesque harbour and settle ourselves down in this great, fish restaurant. We have our first taste of ‘Cacciucco’, a kind of thick fish soup, which seems to have every kind of fish thrown in and is about ten times as tasty as any Bouillabase I’ve ever had! The French may think they have the best cuisine in the world, but I beg to differ...

After this hearty lunch we have a very pleasant stroll along the beach and fresh pine woods, before heading back to Florence

(Original journal entry 2/5/2003)

74. Sassetta

Today is the first of May and in Italy it’s a bank holiday too, except here it’s called ‘festa del lavoro’ or workers’ holiday. Last year we went to Cinque Terre in Liguria, but this year we’ve been invited to spend the day with one of Annette’s students who works for the Regione Toscana in Florence. He used to be the mayor of his home town, Sassetta, which is on the Tuscan coast and has a farmhouse there, where every first of May he invites friends and family for a day of fun and feasting..

Sassetta is a very small town in the province of  Livorno situated near its more famous neighbour Castagnetto Carducci. It's an unassuming town with a population of about 500, set in the beautiful Val di Cornia 

The drive is typically 'bank holiday' and we arrive after a 2-hour, traffic-jammed journey in sweltering heat, an hour late! No matter as this is a pretty informal day. Saverio greets us warmly and introduces us to his wife, Pina and all his friends. We are seated outside on a long, makeshift table and everybody is already tucking into 'bacelli' a kind of broad-bean, eaten raw with fresh pecorino cheese, after which Pina brings out a huge pot with pasta in a ragu sauce.

It's a great occasion with young and old alike, munching away, chatting and generally having a great time. The red wine is flowing and the barbecue fired up for lots of grilled meats. Somebody has brought a football and so some energy is let off between courses. Everyone makes us welcome and by the end of the day we feel part of the family...

We stay for the night at the farm in one of Saverio's flats. In the morning we pop into the small town for breakfast and bump into Saverio and join him for a frothy cappuccino. We also see some of the people we met yesterday. Sassetta is a small town and everybody here seems to know each other... This is the kind of Italy you dream about, and yes, it does still exist! A far cry from the bustling, touristy Florence.  

(Original journal entry 1/5/2003)