The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



246. Milan vs Fiorentina at the San Siro

My good pal, Milanese Davide has invited me up to one of the Meccas of world football, the Giuseppe Meazza stadium, better known as the San Siro, in his home town, Milan for the big Serie A game against our adopted city, Florence's Fiorentina. It was fifteen years ago when I last came to Milan and saw the mighty San Siro stadium from the outside, but this evening I get to go inside...



It'a a rather long four hour drive up to Milan from Florence, a quick underground and tram trip and we're at the enormous stadium nice and early to soak up the atmosphere. There are around 7,000 travelling Viola fans and they certainly make themselves heard in this 80,000 seater stadium. We have a great view  sitting near the halfway line, but unfortunately we are seated in the home section, so I may have to subdue any cheers should Fiorentina score...





We don't have to wait very long for a goal as Milan's Andrei Schevchenk scores after only seven minutes! Our 'bomber' Luca Toni manages an equaliser with a cracking goal and the score is 1-1 at half time. Unfortunately in the second half Fiorentina are completely outplayed. A headed goal from Brazilian, Kaka  and twenty yard volley from Gattuso finish the game off 3-1 to Milan and I'm yet to witness a 0-0 game.



A very happy drive back home for my friend Davide turns into a five-hour 'odyssey' as the motorway is closed at Reggio Emilia. The clocks go forward tonight as well, so we arrive home at 5am in the morning!!!

245. Mat and Rita

Well it's taken her four years and four months to make it, but finally my sister, Rita is paying her first visit to Tuscany, having been given the final shove by new boyfriend, Mat. The girls have been left behind and we have five days in which to show her them a good time...

After a chaotic Friday, I arrive well in time to pick them up at Pisa airport at 11pm. A swift drive home and they're in. A catch up on family gossip and late to bed. 

Day 1 Saturday - Florence



A very cold, clear March day greets us for our grand tour of Florence. Mat and I have whipped up some massive rolls, fritelle and cenci to keep us going and at midday we take the bus into the centre. First stop is the Ponte Santa Trinita, where we have a great view of the Ponte Vecchio. We stroll down Via Tournbuoni and a look at some of the fashion boutiques. Next it's on to Piazza Repubblica and the Mercato Nuovo, where we meet Annette, who has been working, at the Porcellino. We have lunch on the steps of the Palazzo Vecchio, in Piazza Signoria, with all the sculptures as a backdrop... not a bad spot!




Then we make our way to Piazza Duomo, for a look at the huge cathedral, Santa Maria Novella, a fantasy in white, green and pink marble, Giotto's Bell Tower and the Baptistery. Next it's on to San Lorenzo where we leave Rita and Mat to wander round the market. Our final stop is the Galleria dell'Accademia where the request is to see a certain big, naked guy! Michelangelo's David... who else! We make our over to San Marco and join the surprisingly short Saturday queue. I haven't seen the big fella' for a few years, so it's nice to reacquaint myself with Michelangelo's masterpiece. Rita seems impressed, we spend about an hour admiring his 'Davidness' and have some fun trying to sneak a few hidden photos. 




In the evening we treat Rita and Mat to a pizza at one of our favourite pizzerias, Pizzaiuolo. Of course we get the moody waitress, but have an enjoyable evening. A midnight trip to ice cream heaven, Gelateria dei Medici, where we indulge and take home some of their special ice cream balls. The smiley lady recognises me, have I finally become a regular?

Day 2 San Gimignano and Siena

Another late night means another late start, but not before I've managed to pop to our favourite pasticceria, Giorgio, and bring back some wicked chocolate croissants for breakfast. The sky is still blue and the Siberian wind is making it extremely cold. However in true English fashion we are not put off. I take the scenic route, exiting the SiFi road at Tavarnelle to take the ancient Via Francigena to Poggibonsi, which is as beautiful as ever. Today is the Patron Saint of San Gimignano, Santa Fina's day, which means there is a big market on in Piazza Cisterna. It kind of spoils the atmosphere for me, but we spot a cool rug for only 20 euros. Our mug shop is unfortunately closed for Winter, but there is porchetta! We stop for a cofffee in our favourite bar and I find two bottles of Vernaccia I've been after and while Rita and Mat visit the torture museums, Annette gets an early birthday present, some hand made silver earrings, pendant and made to measure ring, so all in all a very successful visit...




This evening Rita and Mat are treating us to dinner and Siena is the destination. We manage to book a table at 'Hosteria il Carroccio', it's a warm, intimate restaurant and we spot Tom Hanks photo on the wall so we know we're in good company! The meal is awesome and we enjoy a bottle of Chianti Classico courtesy of Castello di Ama. Afterwards we take a late night peak at Piazza il Campo, before heading home.

Monday - Chianti


Today's request is a look at the fotball staduium, (I guess the Ufizzi isn't everyone's cup of tea!) Mat is a big Tottenham Hotspurs fan and so I drive them to the Artemo Franchi. They agree to my suggestion of a drive out into the Chianti. We head out on the Chiantigiana road to Greve and I show them our old house at Olmastrino, I think they like the beautiful scenery. We park up at Greve and stop for lunch at Cafe La Loggia. Afterwards we browse round the triangular square and I buy a fluffy wild boar for Holly and pick up this year's Gambero Rosso Italian wine guide book and the shopkeeper even throws in a free calendar. Mat buys a David lighter to go with his fridge magnet. We of course can't miss a visit to Folorni's butcher's where Rita picks up some different salamis and I my usual pancetta. Last stop is at the wine museum, before we head back home to Florence via Imprunetta. In the evening I knock up a wicked spaghetti carbonara and we enjoy one of the Vernaccia white wines I bought in San Gimignano, a 2002 i Mocali

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Tuesday

And I'm working all day, so I drop Mat and Rita at the Cascine market and they spend the day walking round Florence and pick up some more souvenirs.

Wednesday - Pisa



It's their last day in Tuscany... after packing we pop to a local shop for some Fiorentina football souvenir goodies and I take them up to Piazzale Michelangelo for a farewell look over the Renaissance city.



We drive on to their final destination, Pisa. Again it's a beautiful sunny day and the icy Siberian wind has gone, so it's a bit warmer. After making our entrance to Piazza dei Miracoli, we stop for lunch and sit outside in a snazzy little restaurant, not bad for the 15th March! Mat and Rita both order a litre of beer each and there is even a singer with an incredible bass voice to keep us musically entertained. Rita and Mat go up the famous leaning tower and then I buy Natalie a fake Louis Vuiton bag. Just time for a last cappuccino at the airport before we say our goodbyes... quite a successful and pleasant first visit I'd say!  


(Original journal entry 15/3/06)