Lee's Tuscan Odyssey: Roma

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo

Showing posts with label Roma. Show all posts

134. Roma 8 - Caravaggio & Quincy Jones

A surprise change of plan for this weekend... I had wanted to go to a concert by the Neapolitan jazz maestro 'Pino Daniele' in Florence, but unfortunately the tickets all sold out... shame!

However, I then see an advert on MTV for a mega charity concert being staged in Rome hosted by the legendary Quincy Jones!!! Of course I just have to be there... Annette is studying all day, so unfortunately can't go, but reluctantly (for her!) has given me the ok!

I'm on the 9.42 am Eurostar train out of Santa Maria Novella heading for Roma termini... by 11.30am unbelievably I'm walking on the ancient cobblestones for the 8th time in my life...

The concert isn't due to start until 6.30 so I have seven and a half hours in the Eternal city to continue my art trail that began many years ago. One of my favourite artists is Caravaggio and seeing some of his masterpieces is today's goal. I head to the Capitoline museum on Michelangelo's epic Campidoglio, where I see Caravaggio's 'Fortune teller' and 'John the Baptist' along with some other famous pieces here too. The huge Constantine head and feet, the dying Gaul, Praxiteles' Capitoline Venus and Phidias' Amazonia. For me it's a real treat to finally see some otrf these absolute masterpieces of the ancient world.

After an overwhelming morning I stop for lunch, a very tasty mozzarella-in-carozza and I'm ready for part two...

I head off to Piazza Navona, to oggle at the magnificent Bernini sculptured fountain, but of course I'm really here to see one of Caravaggio's best pieces, which is in a small church just round the corner. San Luigi dei Francesi to be precise. In a dark corner of the Contarelli chapel is this exsquisite three-cycle painting of Matthew by the master of low life painting. The calling, inspiration and martyrdom of Matthew. He changed the inspiration painting to suit the requirements of the priests, but they are breathtaking nonetheless. It is incredible to come in off the road and find yourself in the presence of such greatness... I am speechless!

And so on to the reason I am in Rome today... I walk on to the Circus Maximus, where the crowds are beginning to gather... I find a spot near enough the stage to see, but far enough back not to be squashed. It is truly an all-star cast of some of my favourite artists, all directed by the man himself, Quincy Jones and a 70 piece orchestra. The concert is entitled, 'We are the future' a reference to his 'We are the world' project from the 1980's.

Seven hours of music follow, with performances by Alicia Keys, Norah Jones, Carlos Santana, Patti Austin, Herbie Hancock, Andrea Bocelli, Ennio Morricone, Take 6, Zucchero, Damian Marley etc. There are also some famous celebrities on hand to introduce the acts: Mohammed Ali, Oprah Winfrey, Angelina Jolie, Lionel Richie, Francesco Totti, Naomi Campbell etc.

It is truly a memorable evening, finishing sometime after 1 am with a half hour version of 'Oye como va' by Santana...

Grazie Roma!

94. Roma 7

We arrive at the port in Civitavecchia at 10.30am and are only 50 km from the eternal city... hummm too good to pass up!

We park up near the Vatican and have a whole day, without guests to entertain with the usual sights, today we can check out some things WE want to for a change...

First stop is the Piazza Navona, which we've both never seen before. An immense oval square, originally a stadium, then market and dominated by Bernini's impresive fountain representing Earth's four greatest rivers. The square buzzing with cafes and street artists is also flanked with some colossal buildings and churches. We indulge in a wicked ice cream in a famous gelateria.

We find a cool Neapolitan restaurant for lunch- mozerella in carozza!

In the afternoon we seek out a couple of architectural gems that I've wanted to see for years. The first one being Bramante's Tempietto. For this we make the climb up the Janiculum hill, which in the July heat is no mean feat! We are however rewarded with some great views over the city and some delicious fresh figs which we pick from a tree!

The tiny temple is inside a small convent and for me idealizes the whole concept of Rennaissance art in its simplicity and perfection... Suffice to say I am not disappointed!

Our final stop for the day is the Porta Pia, which is right across the other side of the city. The walk down the Janiculum is rather easier and we pick up the car from outside the walls of the Vatican. We carefully navigate our way to Michelangelo's masterpiece and spend some time oggling it, before our three-hour drive home, exhausted, but happy