"They were created in a short time for all time. Each one in its beauty was even then and at once antique, but in the freshness of it's vigour it is, even to the present day, recent and newly wrought."
Plutarch's definition of the buildings of the Acropolis in Athens provides a concise definition of classical architecture, and if any buildings since antiquity fulfil these criteria the architecture of Andrea Palladio does.
Villa Almerico Capra Valmarana "La Rotonda"
I remember seeing a print of Palladio's Villa La Rotonda in England about 15 years ago, falling in love with it and vowing to one day see it in the flesh! This is my story of how it finally happened...
Before moving to Italy in 2001 I was lucky enough to visit Chiswick house in London with my fiancée, Annette. We saw an Opera, La Boheme, in the gardens and marvelled at this Palladio inspired Villa. Annette bought me a wonderful book on Palladio and the dream was reborn. Chiswick house was built by the third Earl of Burlington in 1729 after his 'Grand Tour' to Italy and the magnificent gardens were laid out by William Kent.
Andrea Palladio was born on 30 November 1508 as Andrea di Pietro della Gondola in Padua, Italy. He never trained as an Architect, but as a stonemason. He moved to Vicenza, which became his adopted city, at the age of 16.
Here is a statue of him in Vicenza (with a pigeon on his head!)
Andrea Palladio is arguably the most famous, most influential and most copied architect of the last 450 years. From his own masterpieces such as the Villa Rotunda and Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza and San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice, to his 'Quattro Libri dell’ Architettura' (The Four Books of Architecture) which is perhaps one of the most famous and well read and referred to books in architecture. He has influenced British, American and European architecture over the past four hundred and fifty years. Inigo Jones was influenced by the Palladian style so much so that many of his buildings in England reflect the Palladian style. William Kent, Colen Campbell, Sir Christopher Wren and Sir William Chambers are some of the other famous architects who also used Palladian designs in their buildings. In the United States the Palladian style is seen in the manor houses of the Southern plantations. This Palladian influence can be seen in Thomas Jefferson's Monticello.
On my second trip to Venice in 2002, after I had just moved to Venice, I saw two of Palladio's famous Venetian churches, San Giorgio Maggiore.
and 'il Redentore'
I also took a drive out to Mira and saw for the first time one of Palladio's most beautiful country houses, constructed between 1555 and 1560, the Villa Foscari or Malcontenta, on the Naviglio canal of the River Brenta. I was completely awestruck and vowed then to see more of his work, although it would be another six years before I got to fulfil this ambition.
In August 2008 on our way back from the Dolomites to Florence I managed to twist my wife Annette's arm to make this personal pilgrimage, which for me was equal to a Catholic visiting Lourdes, a Muslim visiting Mecca or Victoria Beckham collecting her Gucci store card in Milan! However, I pulled it off and we have booked ourselves onto a 2-day tour, which by chance celebrates the 500th anniversary of Palladio's birth.
Vicenza, as you can see is a UNESCO World Heritage site because of the sheer number of Palladian Villas. I actually came here in 1990 with a friend and didn't even visit the city... I had to wait another 19 years for that pleasure!We've booked a room in a farm house in the pretty 'Colle Berici' hills, which proves rather difficult to find due to the lack of any road signs! We eventually find the place, but the owner isn't there! Fortunately one of the farm workers is on hand to let us in. We enjoy a moonlit dinner outside and settle down for a good night's rest, ready for tomorrow's epic quest, which in an Italian city in August is tantamount to insanity! And so in 35°C heat we begin day one of our 'Walk with Palladio'.
The tour starts at 2.00pm, so the morning gives us a chance to visit the city at our own pace and stop for a relaxing lunch.
Teatro Olimpico
Our first stop is here at the Teatro Olimpico, which was actually Palladio's last work. A permanent, indoor theatre, possibly the first of its kind! It is the revival of the structure of a Roman theatre with seven roads, representing ancient Thebes, that recede into the background, giving the effect of being longer than they actually are. It is surreal.
(Teatro Olimpico)
Palazzo Chiericati
The Palazzo Chericati is one of Palladio's most beautiful buildings designed in 1550 and is situated opposite the Teatro Olimpico. It opens up onto one of Vicenza's prettiest squares, Piazza del'Isola, so called because two rivers, the Retrone and the Bacchiglione once flowed into each other. The square was originally the site of a timber and cattle market. The original building was quite small, so the owner, Girolamo Chiericati asked the council if he could use a four metre strip of public land in front, while still allowing the public access. This is why Palladio incorporated the raised Portico. Like many of Palladio's buildings in Vicenza, he had to create something harmonious within an existing space.
Casa Cogollo (Palladio's house)
We make our way down Corso Andrea Palladio (where else!) to this small façade. Casa Cogollo, popularly known as Palladio's house, although he never actually lived here. In fact he was born in Padua in 1508 as Andrea di Pietro dalla Gondola. Unlike other Renaissance architects, Michelangelo and Bramante he never trained as an artist, but as a humble stonemason. He worked his way up from the workshop to become the unofficial architect of Venice by his death in 1580.
This elegant house was remodelled at the request of the council, into something more in keeping with the decorum of the city and for him to gain citizenship of Vicenza. Scholars are divided as to its authenticity as a Palladian design, however it shows all the attributes of the master.
Contra Porti
Special mention has to go to a narrow road that crosses the corso, Contra Porti. This is one of the most interesting streets in Italy, but not as well known as it should be. It contains many important Palladian and Gothic buildings, which you can see together as the road winds towards the main square.
Palazzo Barbaran da Porto
One of the most interesting buildings along this street is the Palazzo Barbaran da Porto. It's a good example again of how Palladio worked with existing spaces and adapted his designs to bring together a harmonious composition. The solemn outside facade is enriched in the courtyard with the beautiful loggia decorated with lower Ionic columns and upper Corinthian columns, styles which Palladio incorporated from the temples of Marcellus and Saturn in Rome, thereby seamlessly uniting two previous residences. The genius of Palladio!
Palazzo Thiene
Next stop is the very well known, Palazzo Thiene, which today is the headquarters of the Bank of Vicenza.
Originally a gothic palace, a remodelling project was begun by Giuliano in 1542 and completed by Palladio. We get to go inside and check out the basement, which houses an interesting coin collection.
Piazza Dei Signori
This brings us to the centre of the city and the main Piazza, dei Signori. Here we have Palladio's crowning glory, the Basilica Palladiana and the Loggia del Capitano, both beautiful works of art and the real heart of Vicenza.
Basilica Palladiana
The Basilica Palladiana is an immense structure and breathtaking at first sight. In fact it left German writer Goethe, speechless too, upon his first glimpse he wrote, "It is not possible to describe the impression made by Palladio's Basilica..."
Again built over an existing structure that had collapsed, 'The Palazzo della Ragione.' Palladio covered it in white marble, with classically inspired, but original designs to the Loggias and Portico, which were to become his trademark. The effect of light and shadow is mesmerising! Especially on this intensely bright August afternoon. Underneath the structure are ancient markets and shops and a café, where many people are enjoying a refreshing drink.
Loggia del Capitano
Opposite the enormous Basilica is this very pretty 'loggia' designed by Palladio in 1571 to take the place of a medieval building which was the residence of the 'capitano', the highest Venetian authority in Vicenza. Constructed on two levels and incorporating huge 'composite' columns it does give the impression of being a rather grand triumphal arch. The red brick and white stucco does give it an interesting depth and the niches contain two statues, one representing a god of naval victory and the other of peace.
We've nearly arrived at the end of our first day's itinerary and find ourselves in a large sprawling square called Piazza Castello, where there are no less than four of Palladio's creations.
Palazzo Thiene Bonin Longare
Palladio was involved in the initial construction of this Palazzo, but it was then added to after his death and only completed in the 18th century. Interestingly the left hand side, facing into the Palazzo shows the simplistic design of Scamozzi, while the right hand side the more intricate work of Palladio.
Palazzo Capra
Antonio Capra (the same guy that commissioned the famous 'Villa Rotonda') commissioned this building in 1540 and was one of Palladio's earliest works.
It is probably the most bizarre of Palladio's creations, so much so for the fact that it has been altered beyond recognition and today houses a 'Coin' department store chain!
Basically the central section is Palladio's, but even that has been altered!
Palazzo Porto Breganze
This building is a case of 'what might have been'. Originally Palladio had designed seven bays, but unfortunately he died before it was even started. Scamozzi, built the two bays to Palladio's designs at the beginning of the 17th century. Palladio drew up his designs after his third visit to Rome. The three enormous Corinthian semi-columns and capitals decorated with rich festoons demonstrate his artistic maturity. If the other five bays had been built the façade would have dominated the square even more.
Loggia Valmarana
We drive back to our farmhouse in the Colle Berici, freshen up and head out to an intriguing sounding restaurant called Trattoria Zamboni... It turns out to be the best meal I've ever had!!!
Just the job to prepare us for tomorrow and day 2 of 'Walking with Palladio'. It's a coach trip to see some of the Palladian villas outside of Vicenza, including (hopefully) the 'Villa Rotonda'...
DAY 2
Villa Caldogno
Sunday morning, we pack up our few belongings into the car and check out of our very dodgy agriturismo and go for breakfast in the same bar as yesterday, on our way back into Vicenza. It's sizzlingly hot again today and we have a full program today, meeting up with our coach in Viale Roma.
We head north to our first port of call, the Villa Caldogno Nodera, in the small town of Caldogno. It it's the headquarters of 'C4' a centre for education through contemporary art.
The villa is very simple. From the outside we admire the trademark Palladio arches and steps, great symmetry and clean lines. A Latin inscription dates the building to 1570 and although it is not includes in Palladio's book 'i quattro libri di architettura' it is similar to other villas Palladio created. Inside there are some nice frescoes by Giovanni Antonio Fasolo, who also decorated the Teatro Olimpico and Giovanni Battista Zelotti, who also decorated other Palladian villas.
Villa Godi Malinvernini
It's onward and northward to our second villa of the day the Villa Godi Malinvernini, which is set on the beautiful Lonedo hills in Lugo di Vicenza, with sweeping views of the river Astico and surrounding area. Apparently this was the first ever villa designed by Palladio. The villa was occupied bty the British command during the second world war and was used by Luchino Visconti as the loction for his 1954 film 'Senso'. The structure is enormous, especially when compared to some of his other villas and has a wonderful loggia with three arches on the first floor.
Again inside the many rooms are lavishly frescoed in two distinct styles, the classical school employed by Battista Zelotti and Battista del Moro and the 'Mystic' style favoured by Gualtiero Padovano.
I go exploring and find there is a wedding going on at this really cool outdoor restaurant that is part of the villa, called 'Ristorante il Torchio Antico' what a setting! Also I spot another villa up the hill which looks rather 'Palladian' only to discover it is, it's privately owned and not on our tour...
I manage to get some sneaky photos while a woman is distracted, hanging out her washing!
Marostica
Coffee time is approaching and we have a very pleasant stop in the lovely medieval town of Marostica. Its famous for a human chess match which they play every two years... After the second world war the local chess club used to play in the square and decided to use people instead of pieces and why not! The stakes got higher when they incorporated in the game a story from a play written by a local writer, where a Lord's daughter is being courted by two young noblemen and not wanting to make enemies of the two suitors or lose them in a duel, comes up with this novel idea of a chess match. the winner obviously marries the daughter and the loser the younger and probably prettier daughter! This story was recreated in the English tv drama 'The Prisoner' with Patrick Mcghooan.
The sun is still burning away and today there is an antique market spread around this enchanting square. We manage to resist parting with our money, but nonetheless enjoy an interesting hour or so soaking up the atmosphere...
Lunchtime is calling and we push on to our next stop... and that famous Palladian bridge
Bassano del Grappa
After our brief Palladio 'interlude' we're back on track with one of the master's unique pieces, a bridge! The ponte vecchio or ponte degli Alpini as it is poularly known.
The coach parks up and we alight in the scorching midday Venetian sun. We walk towards the town of Bassano del Grappa, originally called Bassano Veneto, its name was changed after the first world war when thousands of soldiers lost their lives on nearby mount Grappa. Ernest Hemmingway spent many days in Bassano as an ambulance driver and eventually setled here in his famous book, A Farewell to Arms. Famous of course is Bassano for being the town where Italy's favourite after dinner shot, Grappa was invented. which is on the side of a hill and get our first glimpse of the majestic wooden bridge...
Palladio designed it in 1569 and it crosses the Brenta river.
"Near Bassano, a village lying at the foot of the Alps that seperate Italy from the German countries; I have designed the wooden bridge over the Brenta, a very fast river flowing into the sea near Venice... In the site where the bridge has been erected, the river is one hundred and eighty feet wide..."
Andrea Palladio
The bridge has become a kind of symbol for the town, destroyed many times, but always restored to Palladio's original plans, the Alpine soldiers return often to the bridge and remember their heroic feats of past battles.
Today we cross it and partake of the flavoured grappa from the Nardini distillery, making fine grappa since 1779!
After a hearty lunch and a fruiltless wander in the centre on this eerily deserted August lunch-time day we head back to the coach for our last two appointments.
Villa Cordellina Lombardi
A bit of a strange choice for our penultimate destination, in the town of Montecchio Maggiore, as we're visiting a villa that wasn't actually designed by Palladio, but much later in1735 by Venetian architect Giorgio Massari. (It's the present day headquarters of the Province of Vicenza and therefore they don't have to pay extra for our entrance!) Massari expertly joined Palladian features such as the ionic porch to Baroque style and came up with a quite stunning result.
A special feature that no doubt helped the organizers of today's trip are the very impressive frescoes of Gianbattista Tiepolo inside.
And so on to our final stop and the one I've been waiting for... Palladio's most famous creation, the Villa Rotunda. We drive back towards Vicenza and the coach stops at the bottom of a hill in a small lay-by, and our guide tells us to feel free to get off the coach, walk down the road and we will see the villa at the top of the hill... I manage to get someone to take this photo of yours truly and the lovely Annette -
We get back on the coach, whereon the guide thanks us for our attention and informs us that we will now be driving back to the centre and dropped off back at our starting point in Via Roma. Somewhat confused I make my way up to the front of the coach and inquire if we are actually going to actually visit the Villa Rotunda, upon which she says, no it's was never a part of the tour as it's a privately run site, this 5-minute stop at the bottom of the hill was all we are going to see... Oh dear! Talk about disappointment! But I've been waiting for 20 years and travelled a thousand miles to see it! Too bad... that's your lot.
So with bowed heads and tail between our legs we head back to the car.
It's about 5.15 and Annette can see the sadness in my eyes... and then she has a brainwave, why don't we try and find it? So we spend the next half hour desperately trying to retrace our steps. Finally we arrive. Annette runs up to the ticket office, while I park up. She returns with two magic tickets in her hand!!! Even though it's 5.45 and last entry was at 5.30 Annette managed to convince the doorman to let us have a quick run round... happy or what!
Villa Almerico Capra Valmarana - "La Rotonda
"Oggi ho visitato una splendida villa detta la Rotonda... forse mai l'arte achitettonica ha raggiunto un tal grado di magnificenza" Goethe, 1786.
"The site is one of the most pleasant and delightful that can be found, because it is on the top of a hill with a very easy slope and it is washed by the navigable river Bacchiglione, on one side, and surrounded, on the other side, by beautiful hills, so that it looks like a great theatre."
Building started in 1566 and the rough work was completed in 1571 and unlike some of Palladio's other country houses was not designed to incorporate a farm, is was to be more of a 'palazzo' than a villa. Unfortuantely both architect and comissioner died before its completion. The new owners, the Capra brothers, Mario and Oderico, bought the property in 1592 and comissioned architect Vincenzo Scamozzi to finish the building. Originally Palladio had envisioned a high domed ceiling, but Scamozzi, inspired by the Pantheon in Rome designed a lower domed roof with an open oculus thereby completing the villa as it is today. The inside was frescoed by Alessandro Maganza and Louis Dorigny to complete the whole building.
We spend half an hour or so running round, admiring the different angles and snapping some of these photos. It is a perfect balmy, almost cloudless Sunday afternoon and it is with some relief that we leave this absolute masterpiece, which have of course inspired thousands of other buildings, this one created in a short time, for all time...
Lee Cooper
2 August 2009
Of course this wasn't the end of the story. Palladio designed about 40 villas and palazzos, so I still have a few more to see!
Houghton Hall
On a trip up to see Annette's brother Phil in 2013 we drove up to see a portrait exhibition here at Houghton Hall in King's Lynn, Norfolk. Again a Palladio inspired house that was built in the 1770's by Britain's first Prime Minister, Sir Robert Walpole, using the Architects, James Gibbs and Colen Campbell. Again William Kent was used for the interiors, which my two year old daughter made full use of!
Padova
We booked an Easter break in the Colli Euganei in April 2015, with the idea of visiting Padova, the birthplace of Palladio and I earmarked three Palladian Villas to visit. The first one we saw on our journey up from Florence is near the city of Rovigo, in a small town called Fratta Polesine. This was built between 1554 and 1556 for Francesco Badoer
The Villa Badoer
We enjoyed a pleasant lunchtime here, playing 'Poo sticks' in the river and admiring this wonderful Villa.
We then visited Padova, the town where Palladio was born and no doubt were inspired by the same architecture as the young master, who left his city of birth at the tender age of 16, to be apprenticed in stonecutting in the nearby Vicenza, which would become his adopted city.
We drove out over the Padova border into V icenza to the small town of Pojana Maggiore to see this building,
The Villa Poiana
Built opposite a once imposing castle, (now ruined) stands this pretty house with an unadorned facade, instead of the usual arched loggia with columns. It was designed and built in 1550 for a nobleman called Bonifacio Poiana of military descent.
We visited our final Palladian Villa of the trip in the pretty, medeival walled town of Montagnana in the Colli Euganei. The Villa is very awkwardly place on the crossroads of a main road.
Villa Pisani at Montagnana
When it was built for the Venetian nobleman, Francesco Pisani between 1550 nand 1555 I'm sure there was no road or traffic lights here!
to be continued...
1 comment:
Hello. And Bye. Thank you very much.
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