The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



218. The Winemaker

This morning I am driving out to the tiny hamlet of Ugolino - famous for its stunning golf course and home to one of the most famous oenologists in the whole of Italy, Stefano Chioccioli. He has signed up for an English course with The British Institute of Florence and yours truly is the Teacher designate!




He turns out to be a really nice guy - he is actually a free lance consultant for about 45 wine estates in all but two or three provinces of Italy.

In 2001, 10 of his wines won the Gamberro Rosso '3 -red glass' award (top 250 wines in Italy) and this year he won 5.




After the lesson he presents me with a box of six of his most prestigious wines worth somewhere in the region of 200 euro!!!




What a guy!


(Original journal entry 17/9/05)

217. Vino al Vino- Panzano-in-Chianti

It's a beautiful sunny afternoon for my third wine festival in Panzano, the gorgeous hill-top town above Greve.




The drive out is as spectacular as always and all the usual wine estates are here showing off their wares. I get chatting to some very satisfied English and American holiday makers who have obviously just stumbled on this event and think they've won the lottery!




I move effortlessly from Castello dei Rampolla's 2003 Vigna d'Alceo to La Massa's 2001/2002 Giorgio Primo. Villa Caffaggio's 2001 Cortaccio is also here and the usual Anfiteatro, Tzingana, and Fontodi etc... making for a very happy afternoon!


(Original journal entry 16/9/05)

216. Mum 3 - Grandma 2







Only one week back from our Greek holiday and we're playing hosts to my mum, on her third visit and my grandma on her second visit.


Another late pick up from Pisa airport on the Thursday evening and very slow drive home in torrential rain.

Day 1 - Friday and the rain is still bucketing it down. We shelve the 'pool' plan and head to the centre of Florence to check out the Medici tombs in San Lorenzo. I don't know whether the 8 Michelangelo sculptures impressed, but, hey they didn't have to walk too far!






After popping back home it's on to Greve for a look at this year's wine festival and surprise surprise, they've postponed it until tomorrow due to the bad weather... the forecast doesn't look good! Oh dear...








Day 2 - Saturday and things are looking better... it has rained all night, but Mr sun has got his hat on today! Destination - Lucca








A 10 am start means we arrive before lunch time. My brainwave idea of a 4-man (well 1 man 3 women!) bike ride around the walls doesn't happen, as 4-wheel bikes have been banned by the local council! (spoil sports) Anyhow, a nice stroll around the streets is the order of the day. They enjoy the piazza del duomo and today there is a busker singing 'O sole mio' (which my grandma joins in!)


We stop for a cool lunch in the even cooler Piazza San Martino (after an aborted  start in a bar, where the owner actually attacked my mum!) Dining  al-fresco in September.

In the afternoon. We check out the 'Torre Guinigi',  the tower with the trees growing... I go up with Annette and mum, while grandma waits at the bottom. There are some great views from the top.

Then it's on to Piazza Anfiteatro for an ice-cream and we finish on the walls overlooking the very beautiful Palazzo Pfanner Contrini (where they filmed some scenes from the film 'Portrait of a Lady') We decide to stay in lovely Lucca for dinner and by chance find a superb Osteria, called 'Baralla'. We snag the last outside table and bring a great day to a happy conclusion.






Day 3 - Sunday and again the weather is glorious. After a late start we head down the A-1 motorway towards Montepulciano. We stop off for a picnic lunch in an olive grove, with a spectacular view. I manage to drop grandma, mum and Annette off close to the main square and we meet in a bar. All the scaffolding has gone from the square and so we enjoy it in all its glory. We check out a couple of wine cellars and even get to taste several wines - including the best wines of Montepulciano, a 2001 'Asinone' - in the Poliziano enoteca. After a brief downpour we head out of the city by way of the church of San Biaggio - still as impressive as ever! We also pick up some 'vino sfuso' from the cantina cooperative.


Day 4 - Monday and a lesson cancellation means I'm free to accompany the ladies into Florence. My grandma seems to have forgotten most of what she saw two years ago... age! After lunch we take the bus to Piazza Duomo - today the centre is packed (two years ago when she came it was Ferragosto and Florence was like a ghost town) We walk down via Calzaiuolo to Piazza Signoria, which is now scaffold free and past the Ufffizi to the Arno to see the Ponte Vecchio - maximum sights wiyth as little walking as possible! We take the small electric bus to Santa Croce - unfortunately we have just missed last entrance, but we settle for an aperitivo in a café.









Day 5 and the temperature is back up to 30°C and so we head out to the big park at Pratolino - which is closed... D'oh! It's only open from Thursday to Sunday! So we head up Monte Morello for our picnic and lazy afternoon relaxing on the rug. Annette and I are both working this evening, so we book a table at Vico del Carmine for a pizza.


Day 6 - and its their last full day... and the beach is the request. So its's an early start for the two-hour drive and by midday we hit sand! San Vincenzo is my choice. It's a bit breezy and for a Wednesday in September the beach is almost completely empty! We enjoy our picnic lunch and then mum and grandma launch themselves into the sea... Afterwards we pop into town for a stroll and then head back to Florence for the turn-around shower and change and head out for our last meal at Inalbi in Impruneta. There are no discounts this time, but the price is reasonable and the food very nice.











































Day 7 and a morning excursion for the ladies to the supermarket for some goodies and presents to take home. I drive them back to Pisa airport after lunch and we bid them our sad farewells... We drive back home and collapse in a heap -but we have bacon, biscuits and chocolate to keep us happy!!!











(Original journal entry 15/9/05)












215. Giostra del Saracino - Arezzo


Another Tuscan festival to experience, this time we're in Arezzo for some serious jousting. It's a bit of a cloudy day, but that hasn't dampened the locals spirits and the Piazza Grande is absolutely packed. Apparently like the Palio in Siena, they take the competition rather seriously...



It's quite exciting as different neighbourhoods are represented by a horseman kitted out in full medieval costume, armed with an enormous lance hurtle towards a huge metal dummy and have to hit a target.



 Everyone goes crazy as the 'Porto Santo Spirito' district win and fortunately nobody is injured. It is quite an occasion and unique experience for us.



214. Riva degli Etruschi and San Vincenzo

And so August gives way to September and for us here in Tuscany the hot weather doesn't let up. After cleaning and shopping and a couple of visits to the outdoor pool in Greve-in-Chianti our first week back at work is over and it's the weekend.


We head out to the Tyrannean to one of our favourite spots, the Riva degli Etruschi, just outside of San Vincenzo and settle on the white, powdery sand for an afternoon of relaxation.






After a shower and change of clothes, take a stroll in the buzzy town of San Vincenzo, which makes us feel like we're still on holiday and go for a seafood pizza in 'The number one Pizzeria'.


The summer sales are still on and as the shops are open here from 10pm to midnight, we bafg some clothing bargains. Hurrah! We're back in Italy!