The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



My Top 10 hidden gems and wines

1. Cala Violina 




This is one of Tuscany's best kept secrets... In fact many Florentines I've spoken to have never heard of it and even fewer have ever been there... We discovered it in 2003 when one of Annette's students and friends, Saverio ex mayor of Piombino, told us about it. It took us a bit of searching the first time, as then it wasn't sign posted.  It's very well hidden on the road from Follonica to Punta Ala near Grosseto in the south west of Tuscany. There is a long and windy pebble track that leads to a small car park. From here you have to go on a half-hour trek through dense woods, but when you arrive at the sea you are greeted with the most incredible, secluded beach. The sand is powder white and when you walk over it, it makes a squeaky sound like that of a violin! Hence the name Cala Violia or 'Violin Cove' The sea is a wonderful emarald colour and incredibly clear. Our corner of paradise...


2. Wine festivals

There are countless wine festivals in Tuscany all through the year. Some have up to 600 wines to taste! It's the best way to get to know the many varied wines of each different area of Tuscany. Click on this link to see some examples...

http://leestuscanodyssey.blogspot.it/search/label/Wine


3. Osteria Passignano

This is my favourite restaurant in Tuscany... Click on the links to read my first two experiences there.

http://leestuscanodyssey.blogspot.com/2011/04/73-phil-and-leonie.html

http://leestuscanodyssey.blogspot.it/2013/08/150-badia-passignano-anniversary-edition.html


4. Giorgio

Giorgio is my favourite bar in Florence. It's actually in the Soffiano district. The croissants are wonderful, fish lunches delectable and aperitivo legen... wait for it ...dary!

5. Gelateria dei Medici

This is by far my favourite ice cream parlour in Florence... flavours such as 'Parissiene' a kind of toffee nut brittle, Crema di Medici and Buontalenti are to die for!

6. Greve open-air swimming pool



From the beginning of June to the end of August swimming al fresco at my favourite outdoor pool amongst the vineyards of Greve is a must. Click on the link to see it...

http://leestuscanodyssey.blogspot.it/search/label/Greve%20pool

7. Bagno Vignoni is my favourite hot spring in Tuscany. I've been to several others, such as Saturnia and Bagni di Petrioli, but this is my favourite. Click here to see why!

http://leestuscanodyssey.blogspot.it/search/label/Bagno%20Vignoni

8. Lucca and the summer festival

Many international artists are eager to visit Tuscany and one location seems to have brought some of the best. The Lucca summer festival. I've witnessed some great performances, made a bit special by the outdoor location in Piazza Napoleone in the balmy July evenings... Click here to see some of those concerts.

http://leestuscanodyssey.blogspot.it/search/label/Lucca%20Summer%20Festival



9. Corzano e Paterno

This farm near San Casciano produce the best cheese in Tuscany...


10 Il Giotto

On the old 'via Volterrana at Chiesanuova lies a tiny 'alimentari' that sells the best 'schiacciata', a kind of crunchy foccaccia bread that many Florentines in the know flock to. Not a tourist in sight!


Wines

10 Euro reds

Castello Nipozzano riserva Frescobaldi
Rosso di Montalcino Banfi
Il Tre Brancaia
Chianti Classico il Palagio
Dolcetto di Dogliani Abbona Papa Celsa


15 Euro reds

Tenuta di Capezzana
CumLaude/Mandrielle/Tavernelle Banfi
Il Bruciato Guado il Tasso
La Difese San Guido

25 Euro reds
Bunello di Montalcino 'La Palazetta'
Brunello di Montalcino 'La Rasina'
Castello di Ama
Castello di Brolio

50 Euro reds
Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve
Il Carbonaione
Montevertine Le Pergole Torte
Castellare I Sodi San Niccolo
La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Banale
Castello dei Rampolla D'Alceo
Frescobaldi Montesodi
Col D'Orcia Poggio al Vento


Whites
Verdicchio Bucci
Pomino Bianco Frescobaldi
Cervaro della Sala Antinori
Borgo del Tiglio
Vernaccia i San Gimignano 'Carato' Montenidoli
PinotBianco 'Sirman' Nils Magried
Tocai Friulano Eddi Keber



10 Italian wines you have to try before you die:


Barolo Montfortino riserva Giacomo Conterno
Brunello riserva Biondi Santi
Barbaresco Gaja
Amarone dela Valpolicella Romanao Del Forno
Sassiccaia
Ornellaia
Solaia Antinori
Redigaffi La Tua Rita
Massetto
Tenuta di Trinoro

1 comment:

Emanuela said...

WOW Lee but this photos and descriptions are amazing! You've really learned a lot about Tuscany.
I'll say the same valutation that you put me on my english homework: WELL DONE! :):)