The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



74. Sassetta



Today is the first of May and in Italy it’s a bank holiday too, except here it’s called ‘festa del lavoro’ or workers’ holiday. Last year we went to Cinque Terre in Liguria, but this year we’ve been invited to spend the day with one of Annette’s students who works for the Regione Toscana in Florence. He used to be the mayor of his home town, Sassetta, which is on the Tuscan coast and has a farmhouse there, where every first of May he invites friends and family for a day of fun and feasting..

Sassetta is a very small town in the province of  Livorno situated near its more famous neighbour Castagnetto Carducci. It's an unassuming town with a population of about 500, set in the beautiful Val di Cornia 

The drive is typically 'bank holiday' and we arrive after a 2-hour, traffic-jammed journey in sweltering heat, an hour late! No matter as this is a pretty informal day. Saverio greets us warmly and introduces us to his wife, Pina and all his friends. We are seated outside on a long, makeshift table and everybody is already tucking into 'bacelli' a kind of broad-bean, eaten raw with fresh pecorino cheese, after which Pina brings out a huge pot with pasta in a ragu sauce.






It's a great occasion with young and old alike, munching away, chatting and generally having a great time. The red wine is flowing and the barbecue fired up for lots of grilled meats. Somebody has brought a football and so some energy is let off between courses. Everyone makes us welcome and by the end of the day we feel part of the family...

We stay for the night at the farm in one of Saverio's flats. In the morning we pop into the small town for breakfast and bump into Saverio and join him for a frothy cappuccino. We also see some of the people we met yesterday. Sassetta is a small town and everybody here seems to know each other... This is the kind of Italy you dream about, and yes, it does still exist! A far cry from the bustling, touristy Florence.  



(Original journal entry 1/5/2003)

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