The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



258. Dad

I've managed to twist my dad's arm to come to Tuscany and finally after four and a half years of us living here, he's decided to come and see what all the fuss is about... His last trip to Italy was about 30 years ago to Naples and Venice, and this will be his first trip to Tuscany.


We pick him up from Florence airport after an hours delay at midnight and he arrives with newspapers, tea, grape nuts and crumpets!

 

Thursday and I've changed some lessons around so I can take him around Florence for the day. We visit the Ponte Vecchio, Cathedral, Palazzo della Signoria and Pitti Palace. We meet up with Annette in Piazza Santo Spirito for lunch at the Osteria. I have a wicked seafood spaghetti and they both have the risotto and we share a panzanella. The weather is incredible, sunny and close to 30 degrees! The queue for the Uffizi looks small, so I decide to take dad to check it out...  There is a special Leonardo da Vinci exhibition on, which we see at the end. Incredibly we get to see his self-portrait from Turin and San Jerome from the Vatican . I finally get to see Caravaggio's Medusa shield, which has been undergoing restoration for at least five years, but Raphael's Madonna of the Chaffinch is still absent... (on its seventh year of restoration!) After dinner we're back in Florence to see the DaVinci code...





Friday and again the weather is sensational. I take dad for a wicked breakfast at Giorgio, before heading out to the Chianti, via Impruneta. We stop in Greve and enjoy a stroll in the square. I pick up the usual pancetta in Falorni's and we press on through Panzano to Castellina. We stroll lazily through this beautiful town and dad picks up some white wine in the enoteca. We stop for a papardelle and wild boar lunch, with a sublime Chianti Classico riserva, courtesy of Felsina. I find the famous gelateria that has so far eluded us for four and a half years and we sample some of their ice creams. I have some lessons, so we race back to Florence along the lovely Chiantigiana road. In the evening Annette whips up a succulent fish dish.





Saturday and we're back in Florence. First stop is 'the History of Science Museum' that dad has requested. I've never heard of it, even though I've seen the building many times (next to the Uffizi) there are 20 rooms of instruments collected from Etruscan times up to modern times by various Florentine nobility. Mathematical, scientific and astronomical instruments. telescopes, microscopes, barometres, lenses, pumps, electro-magnetics, clocks, surgical and pharmaceutical instruments, you name it they were there! Even one of Galileo's fingers!!! What a pleasant surprise.


Next we decide to check out the Cathedral of Santa Croce. Preparations are underway for the Calcio Storico in a month's time. I show dad Giotto's frescoes, the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli and Rossini, as well as Dante's memorial by Canova. we visit the Pazzi Chapel too and even see Cimabue's cross. We refresh ourselves with some quick granite before tackling the three busses neded to get home!


In the afternoon we join up with Annette for a visit to theis year's 'Centovini' wine festival at the Relais hotel at Certosa. This year it's being held around the outdoor pool, a very tempting prospect considering the hot weather! There aren't too many people, so we have an enjoyable and relaxing time. Dad gets an initiation into the world of Italian wines... we stagger home and I knock up some risotto and saltimbocca.





Sunday and it's Cantine Aperte - destination... Montalcino! An 11.00am start and we make it to our first stop, Altesino, just before lunch. We visit this pretty and welcoming winery and enjoy a very nice 'Rosso' and 'Brunello' with some pecorino and Parma ham. The views are stunning and we enjoy a picnic in their grounds surrounded by fields of wild poppies!


We press on to the actual town of Montalcino and fancy a cake, so we stop at 'il Giardino' restaurant for a very indulgent dessert and sweet wine - wicked! We carry on to Castello Banfi, the American owned and largest estate in the area. The drive through their vineyards is spectacular, as is the drive up to Poggio alla Mura, the ancient 13th century castle belonging to the estate. We join a tour of the cellar which is huge! After we check out the bottle and glass museum, which is fascinating. Unbelievably on this special 'Open Cellars' day you can't taste their Brunello... you have to pay for that privilege! Instead they have their two latest (and much cheaper) creations, a rose and a young merlot which are nothing to write home about! Scandolous, considering at Altesino, a much smaller winery we were able to taste their top two wines! We have a quick look round the town of Montalcino and stop off in Siena for a cool truffle pizza in the Piazza del Campo and watch the sun go down...






End of Book 9

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