The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



8. Castellina-in-Chianti





Today we have a couple from New Orleans with us and as it's a beautiful sunny day, we have decided to take them with us to see Castellina-in Chianti. It's the first time here for us too, (we've only driven through it before) so it should be interesting...

Castellina is one of the three towns at the heart of Chianti. The other two being Radda and Gaiole. It has its origins in the 6th century B.C. in the Etruscan town of Salivolpe and was rebuilt by the Romans for military purposes. Today it has a population of less than 3,000. The surrounding countryside is spectacular with vineyards, olive groves and woods. We stop off at the famous 'Gelateria', Antica delizia, but unfortunately it's closed. Well it is December after all!



We take a wander through the very pretty medeival streets and check out the 'Rocca', a 14th century castle at the top, which houses an Etruscan museum.  There is an interesting restaurant, but it's closed too! It seems that we are out of the tourist season, so many places have shut up shop! There is a vaulted passageway, which is more like a tunnel, but very atmospheric. It's like you've gone back in time a thousand years...





We are after somewhere for lunch and spot an interesting place just outside the town, it's called Pietra Fitta.

They only have a few tables, but just enough to fit 4 hungry mouths! As we start to order, we realize that most things have either finished, or are off the menu. However, the pasta with truffles is on! So we get our first taste of the noble fungus, washed down of course with that quaffable Chianti Classico house wine.

We have to get the couple back to Florence, but this has been a nice introduction to Castellina, one of our neighbouring villages, where I'm sure we will be back to dig a bit deeper...


(Original journal entry 7/12/01)

4 comments:

Unknown said...

I'm guessing you went back when it was all open, I'll be looking forward to reading the updated bloggs on Castellina-in Chianti.

Lee said...

thanks for your comment Joe, always appreciated! Yes, we've been back to Castellina many times... it's funny to think that this was our first impression! We went to the 'closed' restaurant with Annette's brother Phil, (in April 2003 I think? So a little time to wait for that story! and I took Dad to the 'closed' ice cream parlour in 2007ish. I have a great photo of him eating a huge cone there! And a great wine festival in 2005ish....We are on holiday just outside Castellina at this very moment! A fab place!

Unknown said...
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Russ said...

Joe, We were there in 2007, found a beautiful little place about two hundred yards past the market stand down around the corner on the right that made us up a couple plates of great fresh brushette to go with a bottle of local Chianti at 3 or so in the afternoon. (Hard to find a meal in Italy at that time of day for sure!) We stayed over in Figline Valdarno at the Villa La Palagina for a week and explored this entire region each day sun up til sun down and flat out fell in love with the area!