133. The Iris garden and Alla Vecchia Bettola

After a busy morning at the office and a nice lunch with colleague Peter and his wife Alessandra at the 'Ristorante Accademia' near San Marco I'm off up Piazzale Michelangelo for a date with some irises!

The Iris garden to be precise. This year I've timed it to perfection as they are just hitting their peak. Irises from all over the world of every colour imaginable... I enjoy a well earned rest amongst these coloured beauties!

As Annette is doing her DELTA lessons this afternoon, while I am sunning myself, I decide a treat is in order...

We check out a restaurant that I've had my eye on for a while. It's in the San Frediano area of Florence and right next door to one of my private student's house and whenever I pass by, scores of locals are packed in and seem to be having a ball!  It's called 'Alla Vecchia Bettola'.

We book a table, which is actually two places at a very long table with other people... The meal is traditional Tuscan and very tasty. We order a pretty impressive bottle of Chianti Classico from Castello di Ama (the same as aone we bought for Annette's brother, Phil) and wonderful it is too!  A future local???

132. Castello di Celsa

Open Gardens and Courtyards

Today many villas, gardens and castles in Tuscany are opening their very substantial gates to the general public for free!

I've decided on this rather spectacular castle just south of Siena. It's an hours drive an a bit tricky to find. Eventually I happen upon the tiny town of Sovacille and spot some cars parked up down a long drive... bingo!

The Castle dates from the 13th century and was refurbished in the 16th century and the Italian gardens replanted and restored to their former Rennaisance glory after the second world war.

It's a balmy spring day and the extensive grounds are beautiful. I've brought my sketch pad and relax on the rug and put it to some good use. The castle is covered in ivy and some pretty yellow spring flowers carpet the lawns. I enjoy a couple of hours in this truly paradisaical setting...

131. Centovini at the Certosa

Saturday afternoon and it's my first wine festival of the year. Centovini or 100 wines is a festival being held by Vinoteca al Chianti and they are celebrating only their second edition of a festival celebrating Italian wines made from only indigenous grapes... so no Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Chardonnay then!

It's being held on the very pretty terrace of the Relais Certosa hotel in Galluzo to the south of Florence. There are actually 129 wines including a special top 20 selection. There are also cheeses also coldcuts on hand to compliment the Sparkling, white, red and dessert wines.

There are plenty of Brunellos, Barolos and Barbarescos to keep me happy and also some more unusual wines from around the boot to try.

129, Boating in Baratti 130, The Mille Miglia

Saturday at the monastery, Sunday at the beach - my weekend is kind of in reverse, as the weather is slightly better today. Good enough for a spot of sunbathing, a dip in the ocean and some sailing...

I have been invited to the small seaside resort of Baratti by some of my private students, Nadia and Alberto. I arrive nice and early and drive up to Populonia, an ancient Etruscan stronghold overlooking the bay of Baratti.

                                         The tower at Populonia


I meet Nadia and Alberto on the beach. They are part of a local sailing club and there are lots of small boats  in a pine woods which leads onto a pretty, sandy beach. We spend a very enjoyable day and they even introduce me to some of their friends.

In the evening they invite me up for supper to their holiday house which is in the nearby town of Campiglia Marritima. We came here last year. It's an old mining village that has now been restored with many holiday homes.

                                          The view from Campiglia Marritima


 Before I head back home I pop into San Vincenzo, it's already packed with people even though it's only the beginning of May!




130. The Mille Miglia


Another Annette-less weekend as she is still studying...

After a Saturday morning at work I stay in town and check out this year's 'Mille miglia' the classic car race as it crosses the Arno on the Ponte Santa Trinita and goes towards Piazza Signoria.

Many of the cars stop on the bridge to take photos of themselves with the Ponte Vecchio behind!

An added extra as the cars are stopped to allow the president of China and his cavalcade to stop - I see him waving from his limousine! I wonder who we'll see next year?

                                                             (Original journal entry 2/5/04)

128. Mont Oliveto Maggiore and Montalcino

May starts here! It's Audrey Hepburn film season at the British Institute library and all my weekends are booked up!

Today is the first of May, which in Italy is traditionally the workers bank holiday and spent together with families. However I'm on my own today as Annette has to study all weekend... My chosen destination is a famous monastery south of Siena.

Monte Oliveto Maggiore

 The drive south of is Siena is very panoramic, with the gentle rolling green hills of the Val d'Orcia contrasting with the very austere grey, clay of the Crete Senese. The red-bricked monastery is set in a very pretty wood.

Monte Oliveto is actually a Benedictine monastery dating back to 1313 and has some of the most famous frescoes of the Rennaisance, executed by Cortona native, Luca Signorelli and the affectionately named 'il Sodoma' real name Giovanni Antonio Bazzi.

  I join a guided tour and enjoy the very beautiful and extensive colourful fresco cycle...

Afterwards I head  on to the hill-top town of Montalcino for only my second visit. I am of course in Brunello wine heaven and after tasting half a dozen samples, buy a couple of bottles.

 In the fortezza courtyard there is a huge marquee and a special dinner and band as it's the first of May, so I decide to stay and pick up my plate of wild boar pasta and glass of Brunello...

 Good timing or what?

127. Parco Pratolino and the via Bolognese

It's the last week of April and a real mixed bag of weather here in Florence.

On Saturday I spend another relaxing afternoon by the river Arno while Annette is studying. On the Sunday I manage to tear her away from the books - last night's rain has cleared and we take a drive up the very picturesque via Bolognese.

We enjoy a fish lunch at this family run restaurant with great views toward the Mugello region.

We continue on to the Park at Pratolino. Our return here is long overdue - I spend some time sketching and 'haikuing! while Annette, studying of course!

Softly drifting clouds

Passing by as lovers kiss

Ever to return

Gracefully hewn rock

Majestically stands silent

As life slowly fades

(Original journal entry 25/4/04)

126. Le Marche

Saturday 

We passed through Le Marche a few years ago on our way to the very dull Ancona. And so the return trip to the area finally happens... We've booked one night in a 15th century monastery somewhere between San Marino and Urbino.

We set off on the Saturday morning and take the Autostrada to Bologna and then down towards Rimini. Unfortunately the weather isn't too good, it's foggy and drizzly, but the road from the coast to our hotel is breathtaking, taking us deep into the Montefeltro region of Marche. Mountains soaring to 4,500 feet and plunging valleys of deep green pastureland...

Our hotel is fairly easy to find, in a small hamlet called Frontino and we check-in and enjoy our packed lunch in the cloisters.


San Marino


In the afternoon we decide to visit the 'most serene' republic of San Marino. It's only about 40 minutes away. Unfortunately the fog hasn't lifted so the spectacular views we were supposed to see from the highest point, the 'Guaita' fortress on Mt. Titano are enshrined in cloud... The town is full of kitsch cafes with large laminated pictures of brightly coloured dishes and and extremely tacky souvenir type shops selling guns, swords, fake perfume and every other type of useless crap, making the most of San Marino's tax free status. It's like Blackpool and Margate have been transposed to Italy, not exactly our cup of tea...

I'm sure once upon a time San Marino was a pretty hill-top town., but has now been ruined by cheap commercialism and even the beautiful view is spoiled by the weather...

Nothing tempts us and we can't get away quick enough!

We phone and book a table at the Hosteria where we're staying, San Girolamo and head out of San Marino. We change and settle down for what can only be described as a masterclass of cuisine. An antipasto consisting of 7 wonderful dishes at an incredibly low price!

Sunday 

Urbino

After a hearty breakfast and a tour of the monastery we check-out and head on to Urbino - the weather is much better and we are greeted by a quite superb city, as Piero Della Francesca coined it 'The ideal city' and who am I to disagree!

Beautifully set out streets, tasteful, individual shops and hidden alleyways, this is the birthplace of Raphael and we see the house he was born in.

After a very light lunch, we decide to take a lok inside here, the Palazzo Ducale. There is a special exhibition on at the moment celebrating the works of Titian, Raphael and Piero della Francesca. (The Della Rovere collection.) Highlights include the ideal city, the flagellation by Piero della Francesca. Raphael's mesmerising 'La Muta', somewhat reminiscent of the Mona Lisa and the magnificent wooden panelled study of Duke Federico. We also check out the basement with it's unique ancient draining system before finishing our very cultural day in Urbino with cappuccino and cakes.

Only the long drive home over the spectacular Appenines remains, with a stop for pizza at 'Affe di Bacco' in our old stomping ground of Gavinana... 

(Original journal entry 18/4/04)

126. Mugello and scopo del carro (nearly)

Easter Sunday and again it's a beautiful day. As we're now loiving in the city, we decide to check out the traditional explosion of the cart in Piazza Duomo. Our guide book it happens at midday, so at 11.30 we mosey on down to the centre... in Piazza Repubblica we see the cart being wheeled away??? This year apparently they decided to explode it at 11.00am! Doh! Maybe next year then...

So we go back home, pick up the car and head out to the countryside... the Mugello to be exact. An area of outstanding natural beauty to the north of Florence.

We stop at the very pretty Borgo San Lorenzo and carry on to Ruffina. Then we continue on to Contea and stop by the river Sieve for some relaxation on our trusty rug. Then it's back home to munch on some Easter eggs!   

(Original journal entry 10/4/04)

125. Omero

Day 2 of our easter holiday and the weather has greatly improved, so much so that we enjoy a couple of hours stretched out on the rug by the river Arno (a 5 minute walk down the road). A perfect pre-qual to our dinner date at a restaurant I've had my eye on for a while. It's in the very fashionable (and expensive) 'Pian di Giuliari' district overlooking Florence...

We arrive in time to see the sunset over the city, beautiful. Annette wins every course, but then it is her birthday! We indulge in a bottle of '99 Summus from Banfi in Montalcino mmm and finish with a stroll up Piazzale Michelangelo.

(Original journal entry 9/4/04)

124. Boticelli and Filippino - Grace and Unrest

Good Friday and the weather isn’t so good, so we decide to check out the Botticelli exhibition down in Palazzo Strozzi.

It marks the 500th anniversary of Filippino, Botticelli’s protégé’s, death. And entitled ‘Grace and unrest’. Grace, for the Platonic ideals that inspired ‘the birth of Venus’ and ‘spring’ . And unrest, for the influence mad monk, Savonarola was to have at the close of the 15th century.

The exhibition brings together nearly 30 of Botticelli’s paintings from galleries and private collectors around the world. Highlights include two panels from the Prado in Madrid, two circular paintings and a detached fresco from the Santa Trinita church in Via Tournabuoni and some superb portraits – a perfect way to spend a wet day...

(Original journal entry 8/4/04)