We passed through Le Marche a few years ago on our way to the very dull Ancona. And so the return trip to the area finally happens... We've booked one night in a 15th century monastery somewhere between San Marino and Urbino.
We set off on the Saturday morning and take the Autostrada to Bologna and then down towards Rimini. Unfortunately the weather isn't too good, it's foggy and drizzly, but the road from the coast to our hotel is breathtaking, taking us deep into the Montefeltro region of Marche. Mountains soaring to 4,500 feet and plunging valleys of deep green pastureland...
Our hotel is fairly easy to find, in a small hamlet called Frontino and we check-in and enjoy our packed lunch in the cloisters.
San Marino
In the afternoon we decide to visit the 'most serene' republic of San Marino. It's only about 40 minutes away. Unfortunately the fog hasn't lifted so the spectacular views we were supposed to see from the highest point, the 'Guaita' fortress on Mt. Titano are enshrined in cloud... The town is full of kitsch cafes with large laminated pictures of brightly coloured dishes and and extremely tacky souvenir type shops selling guns, swords, fake perfume and every other type of useless crap, making the most of San Marino's tax free status. It's like Blackpool and Margate have been transposed to Italy, not exactly our cup of tea...
I'm sure once upon a time San Marino was a pretty hill-top town., but has now been ruined by cheap commercialism and even the beautiful view is spoiled by the weather...
Nothing tempts us and we can't get away quick enough!
We phone and book a table at the Hosteria where we're staying, San Girolamo and head out of San Marino. We change and settle down for what can only be described as a masterclass of cuisine. An antipasto consisting of 7 wonderful dishes at an incredibly low price!
Sunday
Urbino
After a hearty breakfast and a tour of the monastery we check-out and head on to Urbino - the weather is much better and we are greeted by a quite superb city, as Piero Della Francesca coined it 'The ideal city' and who am I to disagree!
Beautifully set out streets, tasteful, individual shops and hidden alleyways, this is the birthplace of Raphael and we see the house he was born in.
After a very light lunch, we decide to take a lok inside here, the Palazzo Ducale. There is a special exhibition on at the moment celebrating the works of Titian, Raphael and Piero della Francesca. (The Della Rovere collection.) Highlights include the ideal city, the flagellation by Piero della Francesca. Raphael's mesmerising 'La Muta', somewhat reminiscent of the Mona Lisa and the magnificent wooden panelled study of Duke Federico. We also check out the basement with it's unique ancient draining system before finishing our very cultural day in Urbino with cappuccino and cakes.
Only the long drive home over the spectacular Appenines remains, with a stop for pizza at 'Affe di Bacco' in our old stomping ground of Gavinana...
(Original journal entry 18/4/04)
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