The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



137. Cantine Aperte

It's that time of year again when the wineries of Italy open their doors and cellars to the public and offer tours and tastings, free of charge!

Last year we visited our neighbouring vineyard at Castello di Verrazano in Greve-in-Chianti. This year I decide to dip a little deeper into Chianti, literally! Making an early start on my 'historic tour' as I take in three of the oldest cellars of the region.



Castello di Fonterutoli




My first stop is in the tiny hamlet of Fonterutoli just south of Castellina. I actually came here last April with brother-in-law, Phil to buy some of their wine. The buildings date back to 998 A.D. and they are in the process of building some new modern cellars. The tour is very interesting and I'm introduced to a new phrase, 'wine library' where a collection of some of their older vintages are kept for periodic tasting and celebrations, like birthdays.
We finish with a tasting of three of their wines, including their award winning Chianti Classico riserva, though not their 70 euro 'Super Tuscan' Siepi!



Pentecoste in Castellina



On my way out of Fonterutoli I pop into Castellina and stumble across yet another wine festival!!! Beautifully set under the barell-vaulted archways and showcasing some of Castellina's finest wines... I taste some great wines, including Rocca della Macie's 'Roccato' and yes, the Siepi I couldn't taste at Fonterutoli!


Badia a Coltibuono



Next stop is this ancient monastery just outside Gaiole-in-Chianti which dates even further back to 778 A.D.
It's a beautiful building and again inside their cellars I get to see their wine library, which includes some 1930's and 1940's bottles which they occasionally open to the general public!



Castello di Brolio



My last date is with the 'Iron Baron' himself, Bettino Ricasoli and his enormous Castle near Gaiole too. Ricasoli is the man responsible for laying down the criteria and blend for making Chianti Classico wine in the  19th century and was the first prime minister of the newly formed Italy in 1861.

They have a huge cellar underneath their modern enoteca at the foot of the castle. Some tastings there bring to an end a great day of history, new discoveries and of course some fabulous wines! I wonder where I will go next year?

(Original journal entry 30/5/04)
Posted by at
Labels: , , , , ,

No comments:

Post a Comment

Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)