Lee's Tuscan Odyssey: 51. Cortona

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo

Well I suppose with all the build up to this place, actually coming here for the first time proved a little disappointing.

Cortona is the town where American author Frances Mayes has a house and in her books she waxes lyrical about what an amazing place it is...

Although Cortona is actually a pretty hill-top town which rises up to dominate the
Valdichiana with some spectacular views towards Umbria and just the faintest glimpse of Lake Trasimeno. The spoiling factor is that the small town is crawling with American tourists, so much so that you can hardly move! The once sleepy town has become a pilgrimage for Frances Mayes' fans!

Despite not being able to move we actually have a pleasant enough day here. On the approach up to the 600m town, the huge church of Santa Maria delle grazie dominates. We find a nice spot in the grounds of a 12th Century Monastery to have a picnic and enjoy the warm weather and great views.

Afterwards we wander through the cobbled medeival streets and relax, along with all the Americans on the steps in the towns hub, Piazza della Republicca. The medeival architecture is impressive and the Palazzo Communale especially so.

There are some Piero della Francesca frescoes hidden away, but far too many people are cramming to get in, we'll just have to return on a quieter day... still a pretty town and definitely worth exploring more out of season.

(Original journal entry 13/9/02)

2 comments:

Sguardi Sonori 2009 Berlin said...: Cortona is a special Town, here the official website of the town Cortona www.cortonamia.com; May 26, 2011 at 1:21 PM
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