The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



49. Bologna




Today we're visiting some friends in Bologna, so a perfect excuse to try some very authentic Spaghetti Bolognese. Although Bologna is also famous for its Mortadella, Tortelli and home to European Comissioner Romano Prodi. It's actually my second time here, as I stopped off here briefly after the San Marino Grand Prix with my nephew, Rory and friends. However today I'm with my trusty sidekick, Annette and we have an afternoon to explore a bit more.

We somehow find a restaurant still open and serving lunch at 2.30 and of course we try thier Spag. Bol. it's ok, but nothing spectacular... I suppose Spag Bol is Spag Bol! In Bologna or Worthing! Anyway it's still warm enough to eat outside.





We make our way to the main square, Piazza Maggiore, where Annette gets to see Giambologna's famous statue of Neptune. The city is buzzing, Bologna is home to Europe's oldest University, dating from 1088 and today there are lots of students sprawled over the steps of the Basilica of St. Petronious, Bologna's patron saint. We make a surprising discovery here too, that it's not only Pisa that has a leaning tower! Bologna has one too! Medeival and mentioned of course by ex Bologna university student, Dante in his Divine comedy. Apparently Bologna did have over 200 of these defensive towers, of which sadly only a few remain. They were built over existing Roman ramparts, of which some are still visible today.





The architecture here is superb and there are these very elegant arcades or porticos, 38 km worth apparently, which in the winter months give protection from the wind and rain.

Bologna is one of Italy's top cities for quality of life and it's easy to see why... It also has some interesting nicknames 'The Red' for its communist leanings 'The Fat' for its rich cuisine and 'The learned one' for its University. The University has had many notable students. As well as Dante, Marconi, Copernicus, Petrach, Erasmus, Pope Nicholas V and funnily enough, one time Archbishop of Canterbury, Thomas Beckett (The area of Worthing in England I lived , with a pub named after the great man)




One church I manage to hunt down is San Domenico. Here there are 3 small sculptures by Michelangelo. An angel holding a candle. St. Proculus, who was a martyr of Bologna and the city's patron St. Petronius. Definitely worth the journey...















(Original journal entry 8/9/02)

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