The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



27. Borgo a Mozzano and the Devil's Bridge

                                    Book 2

" Who so goes a reading among these stories, let him pass over those that vex him and read those that please him. That none may be missed. Each bears on his brow the epitome of that which it hides within its bosom..."
                                                                              Boccaccio



It's a pleasant Sunday afternoon and we've decided to hunt down this bridge that I've been reading about... It's called 'Ponte della Maddalena', but it's known affectionately as 'the Devil's bridge'. Evidently, so the legend goes, the builder took too long in building the bridge and wasn't going to be able to finish it by the agreed date and so made a pact with old Nick himself that he would sacrifice the first living thing that crossed it. Obviously the Devil was hoping for a nice young Maiden, but instead the sneaky builder sent over a scraggy little pig!



The bridge is in a town called Borgo a Mozzano and today there is an Azalea flower festival on, so a perfect excuse for a visit.

We drive towards Lucca and then north alongside the Serchio River through an area called the Garfagnana. It's a beautiful, mountainous region and eventually we arrive at the town. The bridge is just to the north of the town and looks pretty spectacular. Most bridges are fairly uninspiring, but this one rises out of the banks like a wave in mid-ripple!


We take a lingering walk over it, admiring the stunning views.

It's aperitivo time, so we indulge by sitting in a cafe on the opposite side.


Afterwards we head to the town, which has been completely taken over by Azaleas! The 3-day festival is coming to a close and we resist the urge to buy as we have already bought an Azalea in Greve.




However we try some spicy mulled wine and chestnut crepes with ricotta and chocolate... mmm and then check out a 500-year old house which has been especially opened or the festival. A one-time registry for the town and now converted into a library, with some very old furniture and a great sun terrace.


A very pleasant afternoon in a very beautiful setting comes to an end and we wind our way back to Chianti








(Original journal entry 21/4/02)

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