Our final week in Italy finishes in some style with a dream visit to Verona and our first live Opera at the ancient Roman theatre, the mecca of open air Opera!
We have booked a room at an elegant farmhouse near the city and after leaving home at around 10.00 am arrive at our first destination, Lake Garda at around 1.00. We stop at Lasize for a quick dip in the lake, just to cool ourselves down. We have a stroll through the very pretty town and stop for a nice seafood pasta lunch at the port overlooking the lake.
We leave at around 4 and drive on to Verona and our 'agriturismo'. The temperature is close to 40° and so a very welcomed plunge in their swimming pool is just the job!
A shower and change of clothing and we're on our way to Romeo and Juliet's town for a taste of some outdoor Opera.
We stop for a cool prosecco and nibbles in a jazzy bar and then we're in! The Arena... the second largest amphitheatre after the Colisseum in Rome. This year is the 84th season. We have a great seat high up in the gods and as the sun goes down, the little candles that everyone has been give when they arrived, light up! Caverellia is up first and the famous 'Intermezzo' instrumental brings the house down. Pagliacci provides a colourful contrast and both one act Operas are wonderful with great performances. For me it's a dream come true to be here... a 12.30 am finish, but we have no problem finding a restaurant open for a midnight pizza and 2 am drive round Verona back to our agriturismo.
Sirmione
A 9.30 am breakfast appointment and we're packed up and back on the road for a morning visit to the prettiest town on Lake Garda, Sirmione. We park up and find a tiny beach for my customary pre-lunch swim. The town is gorgeous and we browse round the shops and buy some more presents for our families. After our swim we have a drink in a lakeside bar and then happen on a funky enoteca for some wicked bruschetta and white wine. In our endless pursuit to fit in as much as possible, we drive up the western side of the lake past Desenzano and Sala, to Gargnano, where we have another swim at our old beach, just outside the town and enjoy a relaxing afternoon. In the evening we drive back into Gargnano...
Gargnano
This is the small town we stayed with Rory a year ago. It's very pretty and quiet. This time we're back at this very stylish restaurant, A.A. Miralago, where we enjoy a sardine pasta and fish feast for a wonderful end to our 2-day break. Only the three-hour drive home...
The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia
272. Mercantia
On Saturday we recover from our late night in Lucca. We spend the afternoon, sizzling by the pool in Greve and go for a pizza in Impruneta at 'Cavallacci'.
Sunday and we have a relaxing day at home and in the evening check out this festival in Certaldo. It's our third visit here, but this evening is something special.
Mercantia is part street theatre, part craft market, with lots of different bands and performers playing in every small square, on street corners and even while walking down the narrow medieval streets.
We pick up some ethnic presents to take back to England and enjoy wandering the ancient streets in this pretty hill-top town. Definitely one to remember!
Sunday and we have a relaxing day at home and in the evening check out this festival in Certaldo. It's our third visit here, but this evening is something special.
Mercantia is part street theatre, part craft market, with lots of different bands and performers playing in every small square, on street corners and even while walking down the narrow medieval streets.
We pick up some ethnic presents to take back to England and enjoy wandering the ancient streets in this pretty hill-top town. Definitely one to remember!
271. Santana at the Lucca Summer Festival
A pretty full-on penultimate week before we go back to England.
Monday and a triumphant return and party for the Italian national football team.
Tuesday
and this summer's staff party at the cool. 'O Munaciello pizzeria on Via Maffia is extended into Piazza Santo Spirito and back to James' flat.
Friday
Our only trip to this year's Summer festival in Lucca is to see the Latin guitar maestro, Carlos Santana. I saw him in Rome a few years ago and now Annette gets to experience the Mexican superstar for herself... it's a slammin' concert!
Monday and a triumphant return and party for the Italian national football team.
Tuesday
and this summer's staff party at the cool. 'O Munaciello pizzeria on Via Maffia is extended into Piazza Santo Spirito and back to James' flat.
Friday
Our only trip to this year's Summer festival in Lucca is to see the Latin guitar maestro, Carlos Santana. I saw him in Rome a few years ago and now Annette gets to experience the Mexican superstar for herself... it's a slammin' concert!
270. Campioni del Mondo
Where were you on Saturday 9th July 2006?
A question that will be asked for many years to come... After 24 years of waiting, a 3rd place in 1990, losing on penalties in the finals in 1994 and a couple of forgettable World Cups in '98 and '02 the trophy comes home to Italy. 4 times winners and second only to Brazil for the most successful all time!
An unforgettable experience and Annette's first match. We watch it up Piazzale Michelangelo with 4,000 screaming Italians. The 90 minutes against France finishes 1-1, after a Zidane penalty (that should never have been) a Materazzi header and the infamous Zidane headbutt. Italy keep a very cool head to win on penalties. Pirlo, De Rossi, Materazzi, Del Piero and Grosso.
The whole piazza goes crazy as Italy are crowned World Champions for the fourth time. We somehow manage to make our way to the car and drive home through crowded streets with people hanging out of windows, standing on cars and generally celebrating long into the night...
(Original journal entry 9/7/06)
A question that will be asked for many years to come... After 24 years of waiting, a 3rd place in 1990, losing on penalties in the finals in 1994 and a couple of forgettable World Cups in '98 and '02 the trophy comes home to Italy. 4 times winners and second only to Brazil for the most successful all time!
An unforgettable experience and Annette's first match. We watch it up Piazzale Michelangelo with 4,000 screaming Italians. The 90 minutes against France finishes 1-1, after a Zidane penalty (that should never have been) a Materazzi header and the infamous Zidane headbutt. Italy keep a very cool head to win on penalties. Pirlo, De Rossi, Materazzi, Del Piero and Grosso.
The whole piazza goes crazy as Italy are crowned World Champions for the fourth time. We somehow manage to make our way to the car and drive home through crowded streets with people hanging out of windows, standing on cars and generally celebrating long into the night...
(Original journal entry 9/7/06)
269. World Cup Semi-final
The football World Cup heats up this evening as Italy play the hosts, Germany for a place in the final.
After work I make my way to Piazza Santo Spirito, where they have a large screen installed. It's an incredible match, dominated by Italy, but finishes 0-0 after full-time. I have to listen to some German tourists shouting down my neck for 90 minutes. We go to extra time. In the 119th minute Palermo's, Fabio Grosso scores and does a Tardelli impersonation with his celebration and my man, Alex Del Piero finishes off the game in the 121st minute to seal the victory... We're in the final!!!
After work I make my way to Piazza Santo Spirito, where they have a large screen installed. It's an incredible match, dominated by Italy, but finishes 0-0 after full-time. I have to listen to some German tourists shouting down my neck for 90 minutes. We go to extra time. In the 119th minute Palermo's, Fabio Grosso scores and does a Tardelli impersonation with his celebration and my man, Alex Del Piero finishes off the game in the 121st minute to seal the victory... We're in the final!!!
268. Jazz in the Castle
I saw this advert in the local paper and at 8.30pm we're on our way to Prato, for a return appointment at the Castello dell'Imperatore.
We just manage to squeeze in! No free granite this time, but a wonderful free concert with top Italian pianist/vocalist Sergio Cammariere, complete with a great trumpeter and the Toscana Jazz Orchestra.
(Original journal entry 5/7/06)
We just manage to squeeze in! No free granite this time, but a wonderful free concert with top Italian pianist/vocalist Sergio Cammariere, complete with a great trumpeter and the Toscana Jazz Orchestra.
(Original journal entry 5/7/06)
267. Castiglione della Pescaia and Argentario
Saturday and we enjoy a complimentary breakfast, before settling by their pool for the morning. We have some fun with a rather large inflatable ball!
We drive on to Castiglione della Pescaia and arrive in time for lunch. A wicked 'cacciucco' fish stew in the very pretty old centre. We have a wander and an iced coffee on the beach, before booking a room for the night at a small hotel in a big square. In the afternoon we make our way to the beach, a long stretch of powder white sand and some crazy kite-surfers.
unfortunately I am dragged from the beach by a small matter of a quarter final match between England and Portugal, which I watch in a bar back in town. It turns out to be a marathon as England heartbreakingly lose on penalties. (but at least Italy are still in!)
We check into our hotel and have a shower and change of clothing. We just manage to find a table at the Iris restaurant for a slap-up fish meal. Afterwards we enjoy a stroll through the town. It's packed with posers, beautiful, slim and bronzed, (we fit in perfectly!)
A late night crepe with chocolate and cream finishes off an incredible day.
Sunday
and after checking out we enjoy a brioche from a bakery and cappuccino at a bar, before heading on to our final destination:
Argentario
It's our second time here. Our first several years ago, we were in agony after getting sunburnt at Calaviolina. Not this time! We drive up and out of Porto Santo Stefano and are unable to resist the temptation of lunch at the fabulous,'il Bottegone', a restaurant we came to on our first visit. A wonderful lobster linguine with half a lobster and some nice white wine and a view to die for...
In the afternoon we make the twenty minute walk down to Cala Grande and a magnificent cove with sparkling, clear sea. Eventually we tear ourselves away and drive round to Porto Ercole (the beach where the artist Caravaggio was murdered) and amazingly we find the same bar and stop for a quick drink: We walk down to the small beach and have an early evening dip, before going back to the bar for an aperitivo.
We only have the mammoth drive home, via Grosseto and Siena. Broken up by a pizza half way.
A rather nice impromptu weekend away!
We drive on to Castiglione della Pescaia and arrive in time for lunch. A wicked 'cacciucco' fish stew in the very pretty old centre. We have a wander and an iced coffee on the beach, before booking a room for the night at a small hotel in a big square. In the afternoon we make our way to the beach, a long stretch of powder white sand and some crazy kite-surfers.
unfortunately I am dragged from the beach by a small matter of a quarter final match between England and Portugal, which I watch in a bar back in town. It turns out to be a marathon as England heartbreakingly lose on penalties. (but at least Italy are still in!)
We check into our hotel and have a shower and change of clothing. We just manage to find a table at the Iris restaurant for a slap-up fish meal. Afterwards we enjoy a stroll through the town. It's packed with posers, beautiful, slim and bronzed, (we fit in perfectly!)
A late night crepe with chocolate and cream finishes off an incredible day.
Sunday
and after checking out we enjoy a brioche from a bakery and cappuccino at a bar, before heading on to our final destination:
Argentario
It's our second time here. Our first several years ago, we were in agony after getting sunburnt at Calaviolina. Not this time! We drive up and out of Porto Santo Stefano and are unable to resist the temptation of lunch at the fabulous,'il Bottegone', a restaurant we came to on our first visit. A wonderful lobster linguine with half a lobster and some nice white wine and a view to die for...
In the afternoon we make the twenty minute walk down to Cala Grande and a magnificent cove with sparkling, clear sea. Eventually we tear ourselves away and drive round to Porto Ercole (the beach where the artist Caravaggio was murdered) and amazingly we find the same bar and stop for a quick drink: We walk down to the small beach and have an early evening dip, before going back to the bar for an aperitivo.
We only have the mammoth drive home, via Grosseto and Siena. Broken up by a pizza half way.
A rather nice impromptu weekend away!
248. Arnolfo - the origins of the Florentine Renaissance
The first of several new art exhibitions this year in Florence sees one of the early stars and often overlooked geniuses of the early Renaissance, Colle val d'Elsa's sculptor and architect, Arnolfo di Cambio centre stage.
Many of his sculptures have been gahered from around the world and are on display at the museum of the Cathedral works along with many other pieces already on display here. It's a fabulous exhibition and tghe star is a wonderful bas-relief from London.
247. Davide, Rossana and Lorenzo
A frenzied weekend sees the usual pre-dinner shopping, house cleaning and this morning buying of new curtains at the Cascine market. We enjoy a stroll along the river Arno and everybody has come out of hibernation to enjoy some unseasonal sun.
This evening we are hosting my friend, Davide, along with his wife, Rossana and their six year old son, Lorenzo. I knock up my party trick, Melanzane alla Parmigiana and toasty bits to go with Annette's saltimbocca. We have a great evening and little Lorenzo enjoys himself too, colouring, playing noughts and crosses and cards.
My 98 point Wine Spectator 1999 Fanti Brunello di Montalcino (courtesy of friend and maker of the wine, Stefano Chioccioli) is sensational and the Poderina Moscadello dessert wine and Medici ice cream balls finish off the evening nicely. Oh and our new blue curtains are appreciated too!
This evening we are hosting my friend, Davide, along with his wife, Rossana and their six year old son, Lorenzo. I knock up my party trick, Melanzane alla Parmigiana and toasty bits to go with Annette's saltimbocca. We have a great evening and little Lorenzo enjoys himself too, colouring, playing noughts and crosses and cards.
My 98 point Wine Spectator 1999 Fanti Brunello di Montalcino (courtesy of friend and maker of the wine, Stefano Chioccioli) is sensational and the Poderina Moscadello dessert wine and Medici ice cream balls finish off the evening nicely. Oh and our new blue curtains are appreciated too!
246. Milan vs Fiorentina at the San Siro
My good pal, Milanese Davide has invited me up to one of the Meccas of world football, the Giuseppe Meazza stadium, better known as the San Siro, in his home town, Milan for the big Serie A game against our adopted city, Florence's Fiorentina. It was fifteen years ago when I last came to Milan and saw the mighty San Siro stadium from the outside, but this evening I get to go inside...
It'a a rather long four hour drive up to Milan from Florence, a quick underground and tram trip and we're at the enormous stadium nice and early to soak up the atmosphere. There are around 7,000 travelling Viola fans and they certainly make themselves heard in this 80,000 seater stadium. We have a great view sitting near the halfway line, but unfortunately we are seated in the home section, so I may have to subdue any cheers should Fiorentina score...
We don't have to wait very long for a goal as Milan's Andrei Schevchenk scores after only seven minutes! Our 'bomber' Luca Toni manages an equaliser with a cracking goal and the score is 1-1 at half time. Unfortunately in the second half Fiorentina are completely outplayed. A headed goal from Brazilian, Kaka and twenty yard volley from Gattuso finish the game off 3-1 to Milan and I'm yet to witness a 0-0 game.
A very happy drive back home for my friend Davide turns into a five-hour 'odyssey' as the motorway is closed at Reggio Emilia. The clocks go forward tonight as well, so we arrive home at 5am in the morning!!!
It'a a rather long four hour drive up to Milan from Florence, a quick underground and tram trip and we're at the enormous stadium nice and early to soak up the atmosphere. There are around 7,000 travelling Viola fans and they certainly make themselves heard in this 80,000 seater stadium. We have a great view sitting near the halfway line, but unfortunately we are seated in the home section, so I may have to subdue any cheers should Fiorentina score...
We don't have to wait very long for a goal as Milan's Andrei Schevchenk scores after only seven minutes! Our 'bomber' Luca Toni manages an equaliser with a cracking goal and the score is 1-1 at half time. Unfortunately in the second half Fiorentina are completely outplayed. A headed goal from Brazilian, Kaka and twenty yard volley from Gattuso finish the game off 3-1 to Milan and I'm yet to witness a 0-0 game.
A very happy drive back home for my friend Davide turns into a five-hour 'odyssey' as the motorway is closed at Reggio Emilia. The clocks go forward tonight as well, so we arrive home at 5am in the morning!!!
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