166. Orvieto

For the last few weeks I've been wanting to go to Orvieto, but a spot of flu, some inclement weather and a party at my good friend Alberto's have held off our visit. However this weekend the time is right...

On Saturday we finally celebrated Annette's diploma course pass with a whole bottle of 'Gosset' champagne and today we've risen in time to make the two-hour journey into Umbria.

Orvieto is halfway between Florence and Rome and my interest in the place goes back to 1996 when I did an Italian course in England. The course book was based on this medieval town and its inhabitants.

We arrive just before 2pm and so are pushing it a bit for lunch. We park up and start walking and find a restaurant that looks ok. It takes the waiter ages to come and then ages to bring some water and we haven't even ordered! After about half an hour we decide to leave... We walk on and hit the jackpot! A very elegant osteria, La Buca Di Bacco. We order the five-course truffle menu with a crisp white wine from Antinori's Umbrian estate... and are taken to heaven!

After this mammoth feast we fall out onto the cobbled streets and wander. Orvieto turns out to be a very beautiful city with some fascinating, crafty looking shops. There are several deep wells and Etruscan tombs and ruins. We check out the imposing gothic revival cathedral with its gold mosaic facade and I take a peak inside. There are some wonderful, colourful frescoes by Fra Angelico, Luca Signorelli and Benozzo Gozzoli.

We are also treated to a Morgan owners club meeting in the main square, with dozens of these classic beauties parked up. We decide to ascend this cool tower called  'Torre del Moro' for a panoramic view of the surrounding area, the sun is just going down and we witness a great sunset over the rolling Umbrian hills... breathtaking! The walk down is a little easier, but worth the effort.

In need of some refreshment before heading home, we stumble across this great cafe with some soft, comfortable chairs to sink down into while enjoying our alcohol-spiked coffees! A very pleasant end to a great first visit to this enchanting city.




                 
                                                       (Original journal entry 17/10/04)

165. Villa Petraia

Another nice sunny Sunday afternoon and one of the joys of living in the city is the number of Medici villas there are to visit. Florence's first family were not shy about spending their money and had dozens of these beautiful, huge villas and gardens built in and around the hills around Florence in the 15th century. We're slowly working our way round them and today is the turn of the Villa Petraia.

This sumptuous country mansion was built around a central tower and changed ownership several times, originally being bought by the Brunelleschi family, then Palla Strozzi in 1422, the Salutati family and then finally transferred to the Medici.

Cardinal and grand duke Ferdinando carried out a radical transformation in 1587, turning the villa into a princely residence. He built around the tower, but also the grounds were divided into three magnificent terraces.

The views over Florence are stupendous and we enjoy strolling amongst the Italian style gardens with countless fruit trees, flowerbeds and little lemon trees.

Then we head inside and are treated to a guided tour of some of the rooms, some of which are covered in colourful pastel frescoes, these are scenes featuring the exploits of the medici family and were executed by Cosimo Gaddi and Volterrano.

Finally we are back outside to admire this beautiful fountain representing Venus, one of the masterpiece bronzes by Giambologna.

All in all a very pleasant visit and all for free!


                                                      (Original journal entry 3/10/04)

164. Looking for Leonardo

'Human subtlety will never devise an invention more beautiful, more simple or more direct than does nature, because in her inventions nothing is lacking and nothing is superfluous.'

Leonardo da Vinci

A nice drive out to the beautiful Tuscan countryside is today's plan and perfect way to chill out on a warm October afternoon. The choice of destination is Vinci, as in Leonardo da Vinci. he was born in these rolling hills and was obviously inspired by the stunning scenery.

The last time we came here was on a freezing cold February afternoon and a return is long overdue. There are a few shops open and I spot a cool leather briefcase in a vintage shop which I buy for a very reasonable price.

The small cobbled street town is perched on a hill and is very quaint. There is a nice museum dedicated to the master and we enjoy a guided tour. Inside there are many wooden models of some of Leonardo's inventions, which are fascinating. I discover a new game called 'dama di bacco' - an alternative version of draughts, where the pieces have been replaced by small glasses which you fill with wine. When you take your opponents piece you have to drink the wine! Sounds like fun...

We return home to florence and are too lazy to cook, so walk round the corner to our now 'local' Spanish restaurant, Habitacion Liquidas for a wicked meal.






                                                      (Original journal entry 2/10/04)

163. Florence Wine Night

What a pefect way to bring this eventful September to a close...

One of our old haunts, the co-operative winery of Castello di Grevepesa from Greve-in-Chianti are hosting a free wine tasting evening in the centre of Florence, which is useful now we are living here!

A late lesson cancellation means I am free to go and indulge...

First I pick up my glass and then wander to various stands over Florence. First stop is by the Ponte Santa Trinita for a taste of a single blend Syrah wine which is very interesting. I walk along the Arno and stop at the next stand on the Ponte Vecchio where they have their Chianti Classico, Clemente VII and then over the other side for a taste of the Riserva, both very nice. Next it's on to the tiny Piazza Santa Felicita for their 'Super Tuscan' L'Essenziale and finishing up at Piazza Pitti for some of their other wines from Panzano.

                                                        (Original journal entry 30/9/04)

162. Torna a Surriento - Return to Sorrento

Well here it is! Finally after a seven year absence I'm returning to Sorrento and Naples to see my family...



Even with living in Italy for the last two years and ten months I haven't been able to make it down to Naples to see them. My excuse, working on Saturdays and reluctance to take the car down to Castellamare. Will they forgive me?

We take the Eurostar train after work on Friday evening and have to stand for part of the journey as  there are no available seats in second class and a Sicilian porter won't let us sit in an empty first class carriage... We arrive at Napoli centrale station at 10 o'clock and are warmly welcomed by my cousin Antonio and family. A short drive to Castellamare and we settle into their huge appartment. It has great views over a nursery and the enormous mount Faito. We have a late night supper and catch up on family news.


Saturday

We appear at around 10 am for breakfast. Antonio says we're too late for a visit to Sorrento, Positano is out of the question and the weather is too bad for Capri... d'oh! He has our day planned out for us and it doesn't include seeing any of the famous sites... Anyway he takes us for a drive to Vico Equense and a rather nondescript beach at Seano. Is this really the best he can offer? We enjoy a relaxing granita in a outside bar in Castellamare, the bill for the four of us coming to the same as one drink in Florence! We pick up his wife Nilla from work and head home for a gigantic Neapolitan style lunch. His younger daughter, Mariapia is now a young lady and has changed into what must be her 5th outfit of the day! After a short pisolino we're on the move again - this time we go to Pompei, not to the archaelogical site, but to the rather ugly town of Pompei. He shows us the cathedral and inside there are all these strange paintings that I saw with my mum years ago of accidents that people had and messages of thanks to the Madonna for saving them...  Antonio then stops at a religious bookshop to pick up his latest order, 'Miracles and Wonders'. The next stop is a visit to his older daughter's new flat, she is recently married and he wants to show off his present to them, the whole flat! And when I say the whole flat I mean, the whole flat, from the building, to the furniture, tv, video, towels, crockery and even cleaning fluids! You think I'm joking? Anyway Anna and her new husband are very friendly and we stop for a coffee.

For the next leg we are handed over to my cousin, Franco and his wife, Tina. I haven't seen them for about seven years either! it's great to see Franco he is a real character and confirmed Anglophile. Tina has a nosey round Anna's new flat and is less than complimentary about it. They then take us on a long drive through the crazy streets of Castellamare and up a large mountain to this beautiful restaurant. Franco is an architect and says that he designed the place! So even though he hasn't booked, has no trouble getting a table. he is on intimate terms with the owner, her sons, the chef and waiters all of whom we are introduced to and who join us for drinks throughout the evening. There is a very camp singer performing, but the food is fabulous and we are treated so some very tasty pizza and seafood pasta along with some very crisp white Fiano wine. Even Franco's son, Raffaele turns up to say hello - it's an emotional evening for me.

Sunday

Antonio has thankfully allowed us out of the house to make the fifteen minute train ride to Sorrento - while he goes to church! We spend an enjoyable morning wandering in this charming town, with what appears to be many other English tourists and indulge in cappuccini and sfogliatelle pastries before the rain comes down and spoils it all. Fortunately like all true Brits we have brought our trusty umbrella! Lunchtime is approaching and in Naples that can mean only one thing... a very large slap-up family lunch! For this we have a date with my auntie Anna, who again I haven't seen for seven years. Suffice to say it's another emotional reunion. Anna broke her ankle a few years ago and finds it difficult to get around. Uncle Mimmi looks well and shows Annette and me some of his conserved vegetables. It's good to see Franco and Emelia and their two daughters Cristina and Marianna who are now young ladies... We have a wonderful afternoon of feasting and Annette even gets a tarantella lesson, although Franco says that her bum isn't big enough... which makes her day!

And so our flying weekend visit to the old country is over... it has been lovely to see everyone after so long and nice for them to finally meet my lovely wife, Annette. We're back at Antonio's to pack up our bags and he then drops us off at the station for our 7.30 departure back to Florence and before we can say limoncello, our Naples experience is over and Santa Maria Novella awaits...

                                                      (Original journal entry 27/8/04)

161. Vino e piacere - wine is pleasure 2 - Impruneta

And so on to Impruneta as our weekend wine festival double header continues. Although we actually come on the Friday evening to get started and with over 600 wines on offer, you can see the dilema! So we spread ourselves over two days. As well as red wine, there's also white wine, spumante, dessert wine and grappa and of course cheeses, salami olive oil, biscuits and cakes. All for a 10 euro or £6 entry fee.

The setting is wonderful, amongst the cloisters of the Basilica of Santa Maria in the main square. We start off with the dry Spumantes of northern Italy and move onto the cool crisp white wines. There are some very expensive wines here to taste, the most expensive being the 249 euro 'Il Caberlot' from Podere il Carnasciale. There are a dozen or so Brunellos and a dozen Barolos and Barbarescos to try before finishing off with the very sweet dessert wines. I have to try a few grappas. I haven't really taken a shine to these very strong digestive spirits as they are usually tasteless, a bit like vodka, however my mind is changed by a 10 year old golden grappa riserva from Udine in the Veneto which is quite sublime and I buy a bottle!

Battle of the Bands

On the Sunday we pop into Florence and there is a marching band competition in Piazza Signoria. It is a somewhat 'noisy' experience as different bands try to outdo each other... we have our ears blasted for a truly bizarre evening.

160. Vino al Vino 2 - Panzano -in-Chianti

After the fiasco in Greve we move up the hill to Panzano for our second editition of this year's wine festival and this is how it's done...

A memorable visit here last year is followed by an even beter second year. We come on the Saturday afternoon after work in the morning and enjoy a lovely drive through our beloved Chianti arriving in Panzano by about three o'clock. The tiny square is already packed and the booths are stacked with wine. There is also a four piece jazz band playing and adding to the heady atmosphere.

There are some fabulous wines on offer and we manage to prize some hidden 'specials' from under the counters. The sublime 110 euro D'Alceo from Castello dei Rampolla, Villa Caffaggio's San Martino and Annette's favourite Cortaccio and the wonderful  100 euro Tzingana. We buy some pecorino cheese and prosciutto ham and salami from a local bar to accompany these great wines and have a very enjoyable afternoon... We love Panzano!

In the evening we are at work colleague Jane's for a party and I drink no red wine!

159. Casonzoli - Sassetta, with Saverio and Pina

Saturday

This weekend one of our good friends, Saverio and his wife, Pina have invited us to their lovely farm in the picturesque Sassetta on the Tuscan coast. Annette hasn't seen Saverio for five months as he has had a double attack of cancer and some major surgery. He's lost twenty kilos and nearly died, but fortuntely now is making a good recovery.

An early start on the Saturday morning means we have several hours to relax on the beach before joining our hosts. We decide on Riva degli Etruschi, which turns out to be our last visit of the summer. As ever it's a sunny morning, but the sea a bit cooler. We enjoy our morning and packed lunch and then head up the hill to Sasetta to meet Saverio. It's great to see him in such good spirits after his operation, he looks a lot thinner and treats us to a pre-dinner prosecco at his local bar. He escorts us to his farmhouse to a waiting Pina. She has been busy preparing a banquet for this evening with her sister and brother-in-law. the farm looks great, Saverio has cleared some ground ready to plant some new olive trees and he shows us some other fruit trees and picks us some figs and pears. the chickens are running all over the place and we fire up his new outdoor oven, which he has had built along with a large outside seating area and is the size of a small house! 
We catch up on all the latest gossip before beginning our feast...

The menu goes something like this...

Home made schiacciata (which Annette has helped to make)

Cucumber relish and pecorino cheese

ham and cream canelloni

Baked Cinghiale and roast potatoes

Chestnuts soaked in rum

freshly picked pears and more pecorino

All washed down with our Vernaccia di San Gimignano white and Nipozzano red wines

A wonderful 'Al Fresco' evening with great company and food.

Sunday

Am and we drive to nearby Castagneto Carducci for a cappuccino and pastry breakfast in an outside bar. I indulge in a little wine tasting and purchase a couple of bottles of the local red  Bolgheri wine. On our drive back to Sasetta we bump into Giovanni, a local steel worker we met at Saverio's May 1st party last year. He treats us to a prosecco and a little pre-lunch gossip. Pina has returned to the farm with her sisters and is cooking up a banquet lunch to compete with last nights feast.

Menu no. 2

Antipasto- Prawn cocktail and anchovies

Primo - Farfalle with Scorfano fish

Secondo - Mormore fish and potatoes

Dessert - pears, fresh figs, chocolate cake and Spumante.

It was Saverio's birthday last week so we raise our glasses in a toast...

Happy birthday Saverio!

Suvereto and Bolgheri

And so it's goodbye to Saverio and Pina. We promise to come back and help tyhem with the olive harvest... we drive on to a small town called Suvereto, which turns out to be a real gem of a place. There is a Sunday market on, so the walled town is packed. We meet a Scottish guy who lives here, called Alan. He is selling little wooden toys on one of the stalls. We stop at an outside bar and enjoy a glass of wine from local winery, 'La Tua Rita' and soak up the great atmosphere here. 

Next we drive onto the town of Bolgheri. Even though we've driven down the famous avenue of cypresses several times we've never actually been to the town at the top. Today we fix that and very pretty it is too! There are some little windy streets and several small squares with many enotecas selling the famous Bolgheri wine, the Giosue Carduuci museum and some pretty impressive views of the countryside. We have a pleasant time here before heading home after our wonderful weekend.

158. Greve wine fiasco - part 3

Well I swore last year would be my last, but Annette is working today and so rather than sit at home and twiddle my thumbs I decide to go anyway, surely it can't be as bad as last year, can it?

Oh yes it can! At all the other wine festivals in Tuscany you pay an entrance fee of between 5 and 10 euro and you can taste whatever you want... Everybody is serious, nobody gets drunk and goes home happy. Here in Greve you buy a card for 8 euro, ok, sounds fair. When I enquire, the assistant assures me that you get eight tastings, ok so that's 1 euro per taste, not too bad. When I ask whether that includes all the wines, she again assures me it does. When I go to start tasting the sommelier punches a hole in my card. The only problem is, at the 'riserva' tent, they insist on punching two! Thereby giving you a miserely 4 tastes and when I say tastes, I mean a mouthfull... That's 2 euro a sip... On the ticket there is an extra row of circles that nobody seems to know what to do with! When I return to the 'cassa' to ask her why they are punching two holes she looks at me like I've gone completely mad! A few other people have noticed this too, so I stay by the cassa and listen... they are telling people that they have 8 tastes, "or 4 if you have riservas" I add! So basically people are being tricked! Playing on the fact that most people are tourists and won't really notice...

Greve  -  Shame on you!!!

157. The Rificolona

Yet another Florence festival! This one goes back to the middle ages and has been revived in modern times. Apparently farmers from the Casentino and Pistoia would bring their wares to the city to sell and sleep under the cloisters in Piazza S.S. Annunziata, sing hymns to the virgin Mary and hold a market the following day. In derision of these country women and their shabby clothes, local Florentines made caricatures with candles under the skirts, christening the women 'fierculone' or 'firey big arses'!

Today a procession of people carrying various coloured paper lamps and lanterns makes its way from Piazza Santa Croce, through Piazza San Giovanni and finishing upm in piazza S.S. Annunziata. Complete with marching band and followed by small boys carrying pea shooters trying to extinguish all these lovely creations... it's a bizzare sight!