The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia
111. Living in the City
After only five months in the house from hell we're on the move again! We've been offered the choice of two flats in the centre of Florence. On Friday we went to look at both of them. One was in the suburbs to the west of the city near viale Talenti, a nice cosy flat courtesy of work colleague, Jane. The other one we find through one of my private students, the Verdinis. It's in Corso Italia, behind the American Embassy, next to the Teatro Communale. It's dead posh and right in the historic centre of Florence! Too hard to pass up...
Moving date is February 1st. So we need to get packing! All the travelling has been killing us and while we've enjoyed Montefiridolfi, the village and the friendly people, Miriam's house was too big, cold, old and too full of her junk.
Moving date is February 1st. So we need to get packing! All the travelling has been killing us and while we've enjoyed Montefiridolfi, the village and the friendly people, Miriam's house was too big, cold, old and too full of her junk.
110. Bagno Vignoni and San Quirico
New Year's eve and day are spent tucked up at home with prosecco and toblerone and of course fireworks! Four out of the first five days of the new year are sunny... welcome back to Italy! We venture out for a few walks in the nearby countryside. Today is a beautiful day, blue skies and bright sun, perfect for a trip south to the hot thermal springs. This year we've decided to return to Bagno Vignoni and pack our towels and swimming costumes just in case we get the urge and head towards Siena.
We enjoy the wonderful rolling hills of the val d'orcia dotted with farmhouses and cypress trees. As we approach we can see the hot steam rising from the 52° C outdoor swimming pool...This year we can afford to come in and have a dip... it's heaven! The scenery is breathtaking too, amongst the surrounding hills and the view towards Rocca d'orcia. After our long soak we check out San Quirico, it's small, but very pretty and as the light fades we vow to return in the springtime...
(Original journal entry 5/1/04)
109. Grey, poo, rain and Eastenders
It can only be England!
We're loaded up with about 40 presents, including 4 panettone, 6 bottles of wine, off to the land of the eternal grey, rain, poo and Eastenders! Oh and the most often quoted phrase 'The weather isn't usually this bad' - (Yes it is, I know, I lived there for 30 years!) Of our 7 days, all 7 are grey and raining! All day and all night! Only on the Sunday does the sun show its face (in between showers). Our departure and journey go smoothly, despite planned bus strikes in Italy and Bin Laden terrorist attack threats in London. We pick up our hire car and drop friends Alison and Piero off at Kingston, before heading down to Worthing. in our blue Seat Leon.
It's kind of déjà vu, as our last visit to the UK was the same week a year ago. Nothing has changed much... only the kids, with Natalie and Kelly Anne most notably.
Tue 23- We settle into our routine of bath (as we only have a shower in Italy) bacon and eggs and visiting family. Unfortunately no Fast Show, Only Fools or Mark and Lard this year. A visit to Smiths to buy some cds and book-of -the-year contender, 'Crap Towns- the 50 worst places to live in England' surprisingly, Worthing is not included!
Wed 24- We have a nice walk up Honeysuckle lane with Ruth and Alison and the dogs, dodging the poo, but not the grey skies!
Dinner is at Ruth's and I catch up on the social life of Rory, oh to be 19! Oh yes, today is my birthday - 35...
Thur 25 - Christmas day and lunch is at my mum's with my dad and brother, Carl who is down from Devon. In the evening Chas and me challenge the ladies to a friendly game of bridge.
Fri 26 - Boxing day is 'taxi service day'. I drop Carl off at Lisa's and see my grandma and drop her off at Fiorella's and pop in to see the family. Evening is at Rita's, with curry courtesy of Shafiques and entertainment courtesy of Natalie and Holly!
Sat 27- Surprise, surprise it's raining again - all day! But we have a lunch date with mum, Rita and the kids at Worthing's premier attraction... the bowling alley! Burgers and fries are followed by some bowling fun. A pop into town, where Annette purchases some Next bargains in the sales and then we're off to Hove, actually! Where my grandma is treating us to a Greek feast at 'The Meze house'... and very tasty it is too!
Sun 28- We're at Lisa's for lunch, with Joanna, Jamie and the boys and back at Ruth's for a 'last supper'.
Mon 29 - We're all packed up and only Leonie to see... (Phil has gone to California) she's with Phil's ex, Marie-Noel and treats us to a Christmas concert recital, lecture on the solar system! All this from the 5-year-old star of the Christmas edition of Eastenders.. We watch Leonie come on and pull Santa's beard!
(Original journal entry 29/12/03)
We're loaded up with about 40 presents, including 4 panettone, 6 bottles of wine, off to the land of the eternal grey, rain, poo and Eastenders! Oh and the most often quoted phrase 'The weather isn't usually this bad' - (Yes it is, I know, I lived there for 30 years!) Of our 7 days, all 7 are grey and raining! All day and all night! Only on the Sunday does the sun show its face (in between showers). Our departure and journey go smoothly, despite planned bus strikes in Italy and Bin Laden terrorist attack threats in London. We pick up our hire car and drop friends Alison and Piero off at Kingston, before heading down to Worthing. in our blue Seat Leon.
It's kind of déjà vu, as our last visit to the UK was the same week a year ago. Nothing has changed much... only the kids, with Natalie and Kelly Anne most notably.
Wed 24- We have a nice walk up Honeysuckle lane with Ruth and Alison and the dogs, dodging the poo, but not the grey skies!
Dinner is at Ruth's and I catch up on the social life of Rory, oh to be 19! Oh yes, today is my birthday - 35...
Thur 25 - Christmas day and lunch is at my mum's with my dad and brother, Carl who is down from Devon. In the evening Chas and me challenge the ladies to a friendly game of bridge.
Fri 26 - Boxing day is 'taxi service day'. I drop Carl off at Lisa's and see my grandma and drop her off at Fiorella's and pop in to see the family. Evening is at Rita's, with curry courtesy of Shafiques and entertainment courtesy of Natalie and Holly!
Sat 27- Surprise, surprise it's raining again - all day! But we have a lunch date with mum, Rita and the kids at Worthing's premier attraction... the bowling alley! Burgers and fries are followed by some bowling fun. A pop into town, where Annette purchases some Next bargains in the sales and then we're off to Hove, actually! Where my grandma is treating us to a Greek feast at 'The Meze house'... and very tasty it is too!
Sun 28- We're at Lisa's for lunch, with Joanna, Jamie and the boys and back at Ruth's for a 'last supper'.
Mon 29 - We're all packed up and only Leonie to see... (Phil has gone to California) she's with Phil's ex, Marie-Noel and treats us to a Christmas concert recital, lecture on the solar system! All this from the 5-year-old star of the Christmas edition of Eastenders.. We watch Leonie come on and pull Santa's beard!
(Original journal entry 29/12/03)
108. The Chianti trail. Greve, Gaiole and Castelnuovo Beradenga
We're off to England on Monday and so it's our last chance to buy presents. Greve market and a drive deep into Chianti to Gaiole to find the perfect Chianti Classico for Phil is the plan...
We find a packed Greve market and pick up some great gifts, including a rug for us! Lunch is the traditional 'porchetta' roll and then we're on our way to Gaiole.
We've been recommended to try a couple of wines and have decided to visit a couple of estates, Castello di Brolio and Castello di Ama. Unfortunately everyone seems to be closed up for the winter, so we decide to carry on to Chianti's most southerly town, Castelnuovo Bearadenga. It's very small and slightly disappointing, but we do find a bottle of 'Castello di Ama' 3-red glass winning wine for Phil.
We are also rewarded with some superb views of Mt. Amiata and the rolling green Sienese hills on a gloriously warm, sunny December day, with the sky as blue as a summer's day...
We find a packed Greve market and pick up some great gifts, including a rug for us! Lunch is the traditional 'porchetta' roll and then we're on our way to Gaiole.
We've been recommended to try a couple of wines and have decided to visit a couple of estates, Castello di Brolio and Castello di Ama. Unfortunately everyone seems to be closed up for the winter, so we decide to carry on to Chianti's most southerly town, Castelnuovo Bearadenga. It's very small and slightly disappointing, but we do find a bottle of 'Castello di Ama' 3-red glass winning wine for Phil.
We are also rewarded with some superb views of Mt. Amiata and the rolling green Sienese hills on a gloriously warm, sunny December day, with the sky as blue as a summer's day...
(Original journal entry 20/12/03)
107. Cena in Montelupo
The holidays start here...
It's my last day of work and this evening we have been invited to an end of term party at one of Annette's 'DELTA' colleagues, Scottish Caroline. She has been living in Tuscany for 20 years with her Lucchese husband Nani. They have this big, old farmhouse that they have restored in the gorgeous hills of Montelupo, to the west of Florence. It's set in about 2 acres, with its own woods, vineyards and olive grove... Nani farms the land and Caroline runs her own small school. It's taken them 15 years to restore the house and it has certainly been worth the effort!
We enjoy a very warm evening with some of her students and friends, munching on wild boar with chocolate and tandoori chicken! Mince pies and mulled wine. We were inviteed here last summer for a bbq, but couldn't make it... next summer I think we'll try to!
(Original journal entry 19/12/03)
It's my last day of work and this evening we have been invited to an end of term party at one of Annette's 'DELTA' colleagues, Scottish Caroline. She has been living in Tuscany for 20 years with her Lucchese husband Nani. They have this big, old farmhouse that they have restored in the gorgeous hills of Montelupo, to the west of Florence. It's set in about 2 acres, with its own woods, vineyards and olive grove... Nani farms the land and Caroline runs her own small school. It's taken them 15 years to restore the house and it has certainly been worth the effort!
We enjoy a very warm evening with some of her students and friends, munching on wild boar with chocolate and tandoori chicken! Mince pies and mulled wine. We were inviteed here last summer for a bbq, but couldn't make it... next summer I think we'll try to!
(Original journal entry 19/12/03)
106. Lost in Lucca
November has gone and we break up from school on the 17th of December for 19 days of holiday… whoopee!
It’s the final countdown, with end of term celebrations, governors party, drinks at Beccofino and the staff dinner, pizza at Dantesca in Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Cheese and wine too at the last Orson Welles film night at the library.
There is an international craft fair at the Fortezza del basso, where we pick up the first of our Christmas presents.
Today we are paying our 5th visit to the lovely Lucca with friends Francesco and Ilaria. The temperature is only just above freezing, but who cares! First stop is Piazza Anfiteatro, which like many squares at this time of year has a Christmas market. We stop for lunch at a jazzy place and then get lost in Lucca... We see the tower with the trees and after some time find the church with the famous Dell Quercia sculpture ‘Ilaria sul caretto’ which our Ilaria wanted to see. The streets are jam-packed with shoppers and we enjoy a wicked hot chocolate back in Piazza Anfiteatro and a quick stroll along the walls (too cold for bicycles!) before heading home.
(Original journal entry 14/12/03)
It’s the final countdown, with end of term celebrations, governors party, drinks at Beccofino and the staff dinner, pizza at Dantesca in Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Cheese and wine too at the last Orson Welles film night at the library.
There is an international craft fair at the Fortezza del basso, where we pick up the first of our Christmas presents.
Today we are paying our 5th visit to the lovely Lucca with friends Francesco and Ilaria. The temperature is only just above freezing, but who cares! First stop is Piazza Anfiteatro, which like many squares at this time of year has a Christmas market. We stop for lunch at a jazzy place and then get lost in Lucca... We see the tower with the trees and after some time find the church with the famous Dell Quercia sculpture ‘Ilaria sul caretto’ which our Ilaria wanted to see. The streets are jam-packed with shoppers and we enjoy a wicked hot chocolate back in Piazza Anfiteatro and a quick stroll along the walls (too cold for bicycles!) before heading home.
(Original journal entry 14/12/03)
105. Big Night
We've been wanting to have some friends round for a while, but it's taken a long time to get the house in some kind of state where this is possible. I've finished decorating (and re-decorating) the bedroom,kitchen, leaving Miriam's parrot of course! And the upstairs bedroom. The plumber has finally fixed the bathroom sink and so this Sunday we've invited Gemma and Tiziano, who we had round at Olmastrino and new friends, Francesco and Ilaria, who are from Puglia. Annette and I both taught Francesco on a short summer course in July and we've been out together for drinks, pizza and to their flat in the centre a couple of weeks ago to sample Ilaria's 'panzerroti'.
Today we've done the big clean and shop, bought a couple of new lampshades and cooked up a traditional 'English' style roast dinner. Everything goes well and the Italians are intrigued by the delights of Apple crumble...
It's a pleasant, if cold afternoon, so afterward dinner we go for a walk in the countryside around Montefiridolfi. Tiziano displays his forraging skills and collects a big bag of wild mushrooms. Edible I hope! We have a great time and our two sets of friends seem to have got on well...
Today we've done the big clean and shop, bought a couple of new lampshades and cooked up a traditional 'English' style roast dinner. Everything goes well and the Italians are intrigued by the delights of Apple crumble...
It's a pleasant, if cold afternoon, so afterward dinner we go for a walk in the countryside around Montefiridolfi. Tiziano displays his forraging skills and collects a big bag of wild mushrooms. Edible I hope! We have a great time and our two sets of friends seem to have got on well...
(Original journal entry 22/11/03)
104. Macchiavelli, San Andrea in Percussina and Antinori
October is coming to a close and what better way to mark the halloween/All-Saints and Soul's celebrations, than to pay a visit t the home of 'old Nick' himself, Niccolò Macchiavelli. He came to live in San Andrea in Percussina, which is a tiny village near San Casciano, to write his world famous novel 'The Prince' - handbook to military megolomaniacs and dictators! There is a small museum here at the house where he lived and a hotel and restaurant, which looks cosy. 
Today is All-Souls day and we see streams of locals dressed in black, carrying the funeral flower of choice, crysthanthamums and visiting cemetries to pay respects to their deceased loved ones. We take a peak at the Villa Borromeo in San Casciano, which has been converted into a restaurant. There is a pretty courtyard and we decide it would be nice to come here in the summer... We also explore our new local area of Montefiridolfi. There are lots of nice walks and we stumble across a 3,000 year old Etruscan tomb! Today we opt for a walk down the road at Santa Maria a Macerata, that eventually leads to the tiny hamlet of Badia a Passignano. This is Antinori territory. We check out their Agriturismo at 'Fonte dei Medici'. They also have a villa at Santa Cristina and own many vineyards which go into two of Italy's most famous wines, Tignanello and Solaia. It's a beautiful afternoon and the Autumn colours are coming into their own...
(Original journal entry 2/11/03)
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