204. San Giovanni

I've managed to wangle some lessons off work today so Annette and I can go and check out this year's San Giovanni celebrations in Florence. We haven't seen the costumed parade since we came here on holiday in 2000, so we're quite excited.

We start in Santa Maria Novella, where we see the huge, white, Chiannina bulls and carry on to Via Tournabuoni where we watch the four 'Calcio Storico' teams go past, together with the flag wavers, musicians and other costumed people, carrying various antique weapons.

We stop off at the Lion's fountain pub to catch game 7 of the NBA basketball finals as San Antonio pip Detroit for the title.

We then pick up the car and drive to our favourite spot at San Niccolò to see the fireworks and finish the day with some late night drinks at the cool Fuori Porta bar in Costa San Giorgio.

203. Calaviolina and Cosonzoli

Cosonzoli

After our trip to the coast a couple of weeks ago, we have taken up the invitation from our good friends Saverio and Pina for a pizza and bed for the night at their lovely farmhouse, Cosonzoli in the very pretty Sassetta and are back at the sea. Saturday morning and I knock up a quick melanzane alle parmigianna to go with Annette's cheesecake, The weather in Florence has become unbearable at over 35 degrees, so it's good to escape to the Tyrannean coast. We have a very enjoyable and relaxing evening. The pizza is great and Annette's cheesecake goes down well, but my parmigianna is surplus to requirement. Afterwards we crash out in their flat and bid them a happy farewell on the Sunday morning.

Calaviolina

After managing to tear ourselves away from our lovely hosts, the very hospitable Saverio and Pina and a lazy breakfast outside, we head on down to our favourite place in the world, Calaviolina. We have to wait half an hour just to get into the car park, but it's worth the wait! Another half an hour's walk through the pine forest and we're in heaven! Powdery white sand that squeaks under your feet, crystal clear turquoise sea in a tiny protected bay and total relaxation... Do we ever have to leave?

(Original journal entry 19/6/05)

202. Top of the Pops

What do you know, just to prove it wasn't a fluke, my good pals at the Florentine have decided to publish another of my articles. This time a double page spread with my own pictures! I really have to take a Sommelier course...

I again pick up a few dozen copies to give to my friends and family and celebrate being published for the second time.

Unfortunately they are not paying me and so I deline the invitation to write any more articles and my brief wine journalist career comes to an end... still it was a good experience and you never know what the future holds...

(Original journal entry 16/6/05)

201. Radda in the glass

Well this was a pleasant surprise! A kind of 'post script' to may's wine festivals. We take a leisurely drive through Chianti to the beautiful Radda. Unfortunately the local mayor's husband has died and proceedings are delayed somewhat while the funeral procession takes place.

However a few glasses of wine cheer the mood up as we sit and soak up the atmosphere and breathtaking views. We even bump into some very friendly Canadian holidaymakers. There is some very nice wine on offer and in the evening we decide to stay in town for dinner.

We find a cool restaurant out of town called Panzanello. There are twenty screaming teenagers all celebrating at an end of term party... the parents are all in another room! Oh well, I suppose it beats Mcdonalds! The food is pretty tasty as well.

(Original journal entry 11/6/05)

200. Saverio , Pina and Venturina

Well it's been nearly a year since we've seen our good friends Saverio and Pina. Saverio is enjoying his retirement down in Sassetta and he's extended his vegetable garden and olive grove. we meet up at the local bar for no less than 3 prosecos!

As usual Pina has knocked up a wicked fish lunch that put last night's restaurant meal in the shade and we enjoy a relaxing afternoon catching up on the year's news.

There is an agricultural trade fair on at Venturina, finishing with fireworks at 10 pm. Saverio is president of the event.

We pop back to our agriturismo and have one last dip in the pool before finally checking out and departing at 8 pm. It's a short drive into Venturina and we check out this huge fair with trades people from all over Italy. Of course we bump into Saverio and Pina and enjoy the firework finale.

199. Torre Civette and Suvereto

A lazy drive down to the coast and as the sky is a little cloudy we decide to abandon our Cala Violina plans and so carry on to the next beach at Torre Civette. It's only a five minute walk through the pine forest and we are greeted by powder-white sand and very shallow water. The beach is very beautiful and uncrowded - perfect for some serious relaxation.

After a sunny afternoon on the beach we head to Suvereto to check into our agriturismo. It's a working farm with horses and a great swimming pool. We have an early evening dip, before showering and heading into Suvereto.

Suvereto is a very pretty medieval town and we spot a super restaurant, but we have already booked somewhere else. It looks quite lively, but the food doesn't impress. The starters a rather disappointing, although Annette's fish main course is better. Afterwards I enjoy a glass of  'Perlato del Bosco' courtesy of 'La Tua Rita'. in the cool La Loggia bar. Suvereto is an enchanting place and we vow to return. Eventually we head back to our agriturismo having arranged to meet an old friend tomorrow.

(Original journal entry 4/6/05)

198. Open Pool

This year's 'Festa della Repubblica' (the birthday of Italy) falls on a Thursday and is a national holiday. many people are taking a 'ponte' on the Friday to make a 4-day-break. Unfortunately we're both working - d'oh!

However we've managed to book a late room at an agriturismo farmhouse near Suvereto on the Saturday night. For today we decide to hit the pool. Our old favourite in Greve-in-Chianti is the destination and is absolutely packed.

 A fairground has appeared in the car park accompanied by some thumping music. We somehow manage to relax, though (are we getting old?) and enjoy a sunny afternoon. The Chianti countryside is as beautiful as ever.

197. Wedding - Italian Style!

We are finally going to our first Italian Wedding. Our good friends, Gemma and Tiziano have decided to tiie the knot and we are invited.

A glorious Sunday afternoon greets us as we drive to Prato and head to the Palazzo Comunale. It's a wonderful setting for the short ceremony in this old building.

Gemma's parents and sister have made it over from Wales, as well a some of her friends. We are giving a Scottish couple, Brian and Rhona a lift in our car, Brian is wearing his kilt and gets quite a few stares from the locals. Gemma looks radiant in her pale blue dress and Tiziano dapper in his suit.

The reception is being held in the 15th century Villa Vittoria between Artimino and Comeana. We tuck in to some scrumptious antipasti and punch on the lovely lawn, surrounded by some cool marble statues and breathtaking views of the Carmignano countryside.

We move inside the villa for a sit down meal including many toasts to the bride and groom and afterwards dance the night away to a cool jazz band. It is a perfect day as the happy couple are whisked away and we disappear into the cool, crisp Tuscan evening...

(Original Journal entry 29/5/05)

196. Centovini at the Certosa

And so onto wine festival number 4! And bringing May's wine festival to a happy conclusion...

I've picked up the wine list and searched out some gems to try. Andrea has moved the festival back a week as last year was too cold. It's the opposite problem as it's so hot he has to put even the red wine on ice to cool it down!

A very enjoyable time is spent, all the usual sommeliers are here and I move effortlessly from Spumante to white to red and dessert wines including an incredible Marsala and Passito di Pantelleria to add to all the usual fabulous red wines and just my next article for the Florentine to come...

195. Villa Le Corti and Ornellaia Masseto

The incredibly hot May continues and my favourite Tuscan wine festival is back. Held at the imposing Villa Le Corti, just outside San Casciano.

This year I've somehow managed to talk my way onto the Masseto vertical tasing session on the Sunday morning and I'm really excited! A vertical tasting is where you taste several different vintages of the same wine to see how different weather conditions and the passing of time make the wines so unique. I'm going to taste seven different years of famed Bolgheri Producer, Ornellaia and their 100% cru Merlot, called Masseto. It retails from about 250 to 1,000 euro a bottle, so I'm going to be tasting about between 1,750 and 7,000 euros worth of wine!

However on the Saturday I get to taste everything else! I arrive at midday and get started on some of the expensive Supertuscan's, Tenuta di Trinoro, Testamatta, Galatrona, et... wow! There are the usual cheese and cold cuts on offer to bounce the wine off and I have my trusty rug on hand to provide me with some relaxation. I continue with some wonderful and expensive Brunellos and find two incredible white wines from Lucca. I somehow manage to stagger home, very content and get myself ready for another big day tomorrow...

Today is officially Masseto day! As the legendary and award winning Ornellaia estate is hosting a vertical tasing in the very elegant Villa Le Corti. The tables are all set out and I find a place somewhere near the front, so I can hear the speakers clearly and take some notes. There are seven glasse placed in a semi circle with the different years written on a place mat. There are three speakers on hand including newly appointed winemaker, Alex Heinz. The tasting gets under way with a description of each vintage, starting with the oldest first, as the tannins are less harsh and working round to the latest vintage. From 1995 through to 2001. The standout years are the '97, '99 and this year's 2001. The 100 % Merlot wines spend two years in French Barriques and two years in the bottle before being released onto the market. It is an incredible experience...

Annette is joining me today and after some lunch of arancini and a wicked porcini mushroom schiacciata we finish up with some dessert wines. Villa Le Corti... can we move in here?

(Original Journal entry 22/5/05)