168. Villa di Castello

Our second medici villa in as many weeks! It's another sunny Sunday afternoonand this one is a fifteen minute drive away in a hilly area called Castello, near Sesto Fiorentino, to the north west of Florence. It's full title is 'Parco di Villa Reale di Castello, but it is known as 'Villa di Castello'. The villa is closed, but it's the garden that we've really come to see and enjoy.

The villa was the country residence of Duke Cosimo de Medici from 1519 - 1574 and at one time housed Botticelli's world famous 'Birth of Venus'. The gardens filled with statues, fountains and a grotto were also famous at the time all throughout Europe and had a profound influence on the design of other Renaissance gardens and later, French formal gardens.

We have a nice wander through the perfectly kept gardens and a laze on our trusty rug. I've brought my pad and while away a few hours sketching. As well as the gardens there is a wonderful grotto with some exotic animal carvings and a bronze statue, the fountain of Appenino, by Bartolomeo Ammannati. It is supposed to represent the mountain source of the rivers in Florence and is called
'The first of January'... and it does look as if it's shivering! There is another impressive fountain too, in bronze depicting Hercules and Anteus. It recalls the story from Greek mythology and here represents Florentine Duke Cosimo defeating Florence's enemies by using intelligence over brute force... although it helps when you're Hercules, the world's strongest man!

We enjoy a very relaxing afternoon, only beaten, or rather 'bitten' at dusk by some pesky mosquitos who are still clinging on to the remnants of summer.

167. Relais Certosa and Villa Sant Andrea

A very special evening, as old our favourite winery, Villa Sant Andrea between Montefiridolfi and San Casciano are showcasing their latest wines at the Relais Certosa hotel in Galluzo. The hotel is providing a slap up buffet meal and we get to taste some really nice wines.

We start with a lovely Vermentino, Pinot Bianco white wine blend before moving on to their Chianti Classico, which is youthful and fruity and the Riserva which is more complex and spicy. We finish up with their sweet, but delicate Vin Santo dessert wine. All in all not a bad way to spend a Friday evening!

(Original journal entry 23/10/04)

166. Orvieto

For the last few weeks I've been wanting to go to Orvieto, but a spot of flu, some inclement weather and a party at my good friend Alberto's have held off our visit. However this weekend the time is right...

On Saturday we finally celebrated Annette's diploma course pass with a whole bottle of 'Gosset' champagne and today we've risen in time to make the two-hour journey into Umbria.

Orvieto is halfway between Florence and Rome and my interest in the place goes back to 1996 when I did an Italian course in England. The course book was based on this medieval town and its inhabitants.

We arrive just before 2pm and so are pushing it a bit for lunch. We park up and start walking and find a restaurant that looks ok. It takes the waiter ages to come and then ages to bring some water and we haven't even ordered! After about half an hour we decide to leave... We walk on and hit the jackpot! A very elegant osteria, La Buca Di Bacco. We order the five-course truffle menu with a crisp white wine from Antinori's Umbrian estate... and are taken to heaven!

After this mammoth feast we fall out onto the cobbled streets and wander. Orvieto turns out to be a very beautiful city with some fascinating, crafty looking shops. There are several deep wells and Etruscan tombs and ruins. We check out the imposing gothic revival cathedral with its gold mosaic facade and I take a peak inside. There are some wonderful, colourful frescoes by Fra Angelico, Luca Signorelli and Benozzo Gozzoli.

We are also treated to a Morgan owners club meeting in the main square, with dozens of these classic beauties parked up. We decide to ascend this cool tower called  'Torre del Moro' for a panoramic view of the surrounding area, the sun is just going down and we witness a great sunset over the rolling Umbrian hills... breathtaking! The walk down is a little easier, but worth the effort.

In need of some refreshment before heading home, we stumble across this great cafe with some soft, comfortable chairs to sink down into while enjoying our alcohol-spiked coffees! A very pleasant end to a great first visit to this enchanting city.




                 
                                                       (Original journal entry 17/10/04)

165. Villa Petraia

Another nice sunny Sunday afternoon and one of the joys of living in the city is the number of Medici villas there are to visit. Florence's first family were not shy about spending their money and had dozens of these beautiful, huge villas and gardens built in and around the hills around Florence in the 15th century. We're slowly working our way round them and today is the turn of the Villa Petraia.

This sumptuous country mansion was built around a central tower and changed ownership several times, originally being bought by the Brunelleschi family, then Palla Strozzi in 1422, the Salutati family and then finally transferred to the Medici.

Cardinal and grand duke Ferdinando carried out a radical transformation in 1587, turning the villa into a princely residence. He built around the tower, but also the grounds were divided into three magnificent terraces.

The views over Florence are stupendous and we enjoy strolling amongst the Italian style gardens with countless fruit trees, flowerbeds and little lemon trees.

Then we head inside and are treated to a guided tour of some of the rooms, some of which are covered in colourful pastel frescoes, these are scenes featuring the exploits of the medici family and were executed by Cosimo Gaddi and Volterrano.

Finally we are back outside to admire this beautiful fountain representing Venus, one of the masterpiece bronzes by Giambologna.

All in all a very pleasant visit and all for free!


                                                      (Original journal entry 3/10/04)

164. Looking for Leonardo

'Human subtlety will never devise an invention more beautiful, more simple or more direct than does nature, because in her inventions nothing is lacking and nothing is superfluous.'

Leonardo da Vinci

A nice drive out to the beautiful Tuscan countryside is today's plan and perfect way to chill out on a warm October afternoon. The choice of destination is Vinci, as in Leonardo da Vinci. he was born in these rolling hills and was obviously inspired by the stunning scenery.

The last time we came here was on a freezing cold February afternoon and a return is long overdue. There are a few shops open and I spot a cool leather briefcase in a vintage shop which I buy for a very reasonable price.

The small cobbled street town is perched on a hill and is very quaint. There is a nice museum dedicated to the master and we enjoy a guided tour. Inside there are many wooden models of some of Leonardo's inventions, which are fascinating. I discover a new game called 'dama di bacco' - an alternative version of draughts, where the pieces have been replaced by small glasses which you fill with wine. When you take your opponents piece you have to drink the wine! Sounds like fun...

We return home to florence and are too lazy to cook, so walk round the corner to our now 'local' Spanish restaurant, Habitacion Liquidas for a wicked meal.






                                                      (Original journal entry 2/10/04)

163. Florence Wine Night

What a pefect way to bring this eventful September to a close...

One of our old haunts, the co-operative winery of Castello di Grevepesa from Greve-in-Chianti are hosting a free wine tasting evening in the centre of Florence, which is useful now we are living here!

A late lesson cancellation means I am free to go and indulge...

First I pick up my glass and then wander to various stands over Florence. First stop is by the Ponte Santa Trinita for a taste of a single blend Syrah wine which is very interesting. I walk along the Arno and stop at the next stand on the Ponte Vecchio where they have their Chianti Classico, Clemente VII and then over the other side for a taste of the Riserva, both very nice. Next it's on to the tiny Piazza Santa Felicita for their 'Super Tuscan' L'Essenziale and finishing up at Piazza Pitti for some of their other wines from Panzano.

                                                        (Original journal entry 30/9/04)