The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



156. Windsurfing in Baratti

The weather is still scorching and another invitation from friends Alberto and Nadia for a day at the beach and dinner at their house in Campiglia is too good to pass up. A late start on the Sunday morning and we arrive on the beach at Baratti just before lunch.





All the usual gang are there and I'm treated (or rather pushed into) my first ever impromptu windsurfing lesson by Dario! It is far more difficult than it looks I can assure you, but I have great fun trying. The boards belong to the sailing school, so I can use it for free .



After a very relaxing day on the beach we drive up to Nadia and Alberto's house in the hills og Campiglia Marritima and enjoy another wonderful meal courtesy of chef Alberto. Stuffed courgette flowers, pasta with a nice tomato and carrot sauce, pecorino cheese and pears etc etc.

They have sky tv set up and after dinner we introduce them to the Naked chef, who much to Nadia's disappointment is fully clothed! He's cooking an Italian dish of course...

(Original journal entry 5/9/04)

155. MTV/Coca Cola Live

Book 7

'This century being a truly golden age, has brought back to light the liberal arts, which had almost been destroyed: grammar, poetry, rhetoric, painting, sculpture, singing to the orphic lyre - and all in Florence'

Marsilio Ficino


Well the holidays are over and it's back to work, but to erase the pain of the 'October blues' we have that little epilogue that is September! 

Our first week is fairly quiet workwise and so some opportunity for some last visits to the outdoor pool in Greve and some evenings in Impruneta for our big glass of Brunello. 



The week culminates with this free concert in the Cascine park. One of my favourite Italian bands, Le Vibrazione are performing, as is American soulstress, Kelis. We have a very enjoyable evening boogying away in the park with around 30,00 local Florentine youth!



(Original journal entry 4/9/04)


154. Osteria San Guido

We saved this restaurant for a special occasion and tonight is that night!



Fresh from our holiday to Elba we have an evening to kill and as it's on the way back, decide theat the opportunity is too good to pass up! We've driven past the restaurant many times, nestled at the entrance of the famous avenue of cypress trees that lead to the small town of Bolgheri. This elegant osteria belongs to the owners of the wine estate that make the world famous 'Sassicaia' wine, Mario Incisa della Rochetta and his estate, San Guido.

We book a table and then go away to change into some decent clothes and as we have some time, pop into the town to have a peak... We return in time to see a wonderful sunset over the vineyards.



The outside seating is very atmospheric and I cheekily ask for a taste of the estate's second cru wine, Guidalberto and the waitresss willingly complies!

We then gorge ourselves on a great mixed antipasti, mushroom and rabbit tagliatelle, aubergine crispy pancakes, main courses of pork and peppers, guinea fowl and some wicked chocolate cake all washed down with a bottle of the estate's 'La Difese' red wine. A super meal at a very reasonable price and a beautiful setting... A nice way to end my journal no. 6!

153. Isola d'Elba



Well we try to book a holiday to Greek island of Kephalonia, but it didn't work out and so here we are on the beautiful island of Elba for our 'official' holiday.

This little gem is practically unknown to English tourism, but is a favourite weekend retreat for Tuscans and former French emperors! (Napoleon being its most famous former resident.)




The only question is, can an island roughly the same size as the Isle of Wight have enough to keep us busy for a week? Let's see...

Arrival - Rio nel Elba




With no hotel or ferry reservations, we drive from Florence to the port at Piombino and manage to get a ticket! We're straight on the 2.30 ferry heading for Portoferraio, the capital of Elba.

After locating the tourist office and phoning round several places, we have an apartment for the week! It turns out to be the gorgeous little hill-top village of Rio nell' Elba and we're in the main square...

It's only a half-hour drive away and in no time we pick up the key and settle in and go for dinner in our local bar/ restaurant, 'da Cipolla'.


La Biodola and Il Giardino

Day 2 and we force ourselves out of bed for cappuccino and pastry  at bar Cipolla, last night's band have cleared up and left and the bell tower didn't start ringing until 8 am!




We head straight to the island's best beach, La Biodola - it's jam-packed, but the sand is powder white and the sea a wonderful transparent turquoise!

After a relaxing afternoon we drive back home for a shower and head out to Porto Azzuro and settle on a restaurant just out of town... It's called 'Il Giardino' and after an hour's wait we have a table! I think maybe we need to book next time...

The wait turns out to be worthwhile... We order a 12 dish antipasti, which is just incredible!


L'Inamorata and Il Chiasso

Or roughly translated as 'in love and noise'!




Day 3 and an earlier start - we head off to the pretty 'lovers' beach, which is a lot smaller and less crowded than Biodola - with beautiful, emerald green sea... We stay until 7 pm, drive back home, shower, change and then decide to check out nearby town, Capoliveri. It turns out to be the most popular town on the island, perched high on a hill and buzzing with activity. This is what we came to Italy for! We find a cozy restaurant just off the main square, 'il chiasso'. The food is superb! We munch away on some wicked pasta dishes,  meaty main courses, all washed down by a very nice Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine from Panizzi.


After, we wander the elegant streets and I buy myself a cool Armani watch. There is a live band playing in the main square and we enjoy some dancing... La dolce vita indeed!


Zuccale and 'il Cantinetta'



Day 4 and we have a lunch date in the picturesque harbour of Porto Azzuro. We've had our eyes on this restaurant and we enjoy a long lazy lunch here before driving onto what turns out to be Annette's favourite beach at Zuccale. Small, quiet and peaceful.



In the evening we finally manage to eat at home and catch up on some Olympic action...

Cavoli, St. Ilario and 'la Cava'.




Day 5 and we journey to the centre of the island, first stop is the gorgeous sandy beach at Cavoli - some big waves make for some amateur surfing, after which we drive up to the pretty little village of St. Ilario and have a pleasant stroll and happen upon an interesting looking restaurant with a spectacular panoramic view. We enjoy a wicked lobster pasta dish and a lovely bottle of chardonnay from Castello di Ama as we watch the sun set and moon rise... lovely!


Morcone and Tony Coleman





Day 6 and yet another warm, sunny day. We  spend a lazy morning breakfasting in our local bar in the pretty square of Rio nell'Elba and check out some of the old parts of the town.

Our search for the beach of Remaiolo proves fruitless (it turns out to be private and only reachable by boat or shuttle bus from a nearby hotel) so we settle for Morcone - renamed by me 'jelly fish cove' and I have the sting to prove it!

We pop home for dinner and then back out to Capoliveri for our concert date at the 'Sugar Reef' with funky, blues drummer, Tony Coleman - ex band member for James Brown, B.B. King etc. A 1 am start and a very funky evening ensues... at 4.30 am we stagger out, find the car and eventually our way home...


Poggio, Marciana, Paolina and Procchio!



So how many places can we fit in to one day? The answer apparently is five! 

A late start for our drive to the west of the island and we arrive in Marciana Marina for a nice relaxing lunch on the water front. We then drive up to the quaint little village of Poggio and then on to neighbouring Marciana Alta where we have this ridiculous idea to go up a very large mountain in a very small chair! Going up is definitely more scary than coming down, but we are rewarded with some spectacular views of the whole island...





After successfully coming back down what turns out to be the 1,100 foot Monte Capanne, we recover on a tiny beach where Napoleon's sister, Paolina used to bathe. Afterwards we drive back up to Poggio and find a cool bar with a magnificent view to have a very civilized aperitivo. On the way home we spot a 'sagra gastronomica' at Procchio and decide to investigate... It turns out to be a huge fish banquet and some traditional dancing... too good to pass up! And we enjoy a very pleasant evening.


Departure 

It's our final day on the island. We pack up our bags, pay up and check out and have six hours before the ferry leaves from Portoferraio...
A breakfast stop at one of the island's most well-known wine estates, Sapereta, where I indulge in a little wine tasting and come away with a bottle of the island's famous dessert wine 'Aleatico'. 

We try to find the beach at Capo Bianco, but fail! So settle for a small, shingly cove at Seccione, where we soak up the last few rays of sun... We head back to Portoferraio and have time for a last 'cafe shakerato' before embarking at 5.30pm. The crossing back to Piombino is calm, as we watch the beautiful island of Elba disappear... 




Will we return?

 Hopefully...


(Original journal entry 29/8/04)





152. Sun, Salsa and Seagulls... Uk summer

Well what a surprise we arrive in England to 2 weeks of glorious sunshine! The last week of July and first in August are both gorgeous... 25°C and no rain! (When can we move back?) We're working at Swandean EFL school in Worthing, I'm teaching in the mornings and doing the social programme in the afternoons.



However true to form, the second and third week of August see a complete change as the temperature is back down to the late teens and it rains practically every day!

The seagulls provide the soundtrack to the summer, their endless warbling driving us to near suicide!

This summer we manage to hit the Salsa dance floor twice, now we're really getting somewhere...

On our first weekend we manage to see the Rainbow theatre's performance of Shakespeare's 'A Comedy of Errors' at Highdown gardens, we take Annette's mum, Mavis and it doesn't rain!

London



On the first and second Saturdays I get to go up to London for free! In fact I'm being paid to take some goups of students up on an excusion, so I get to do the touristy bit.

On the first Saturday during our free time I spend some time in the National Gallery... it's only my second ever visit, I came here in 1996 and remember seeing the Leonardo da Vinci cartoon, Michelangelo's paintings and Van Gogh's Sunflowers. I revisit these pieces with several students , but lose them somewhere in the 1900's... while I'm enjoying Seurat's Bathers and Monet's Water lillies! There are some Italians checking out Piero della Francesco's Risen Christ and San Sebastian, who is still being pierced with all those arrows!

I sit back and lose myself in the blue, grey mist and cloud of some Turner masterpieces... oh, is it time to go already?


Cambridge

Always one of the highlights of our trips back to England to see Annette's brother Phil and his lovely six-year old daughter Leonie...



Annette trains up to Cambridge on the Saturday morning (while I'm trudging round sunny London) and spends the afternoon at Phil's local country club pampering herself! I meet up with them in the evening for dinner at 'the Back street Bistro' restaurant.

Phil is off to California in a few days, so after a pain au chocolat/raisin/apricot feast for breakfast, we head out for a wander round Cambridge... it's a beautiful, hot, sunny day and everyone's lazing in the parks, on the river Cam and generally enjoying themselves...

We walk through Phil's college and oldest in Cambridge, Peterhouse, past Christchurch and cool our feet off in the river! If only every day of summer in England was like this...



Family musings...

It's only been eight months since we've seen most of our family, others we haven't seen for two and five years! Here are some highlights...

We stay with Annette's mum and dad, Charlie and Mavis, we have dinner at my mum's and see my two sisters, Rita and Cassandra and also have lunch out with her and at her house. I go for a drink with my dad and with Annette to his house.



I have lunch in Worthing with my sister, Rita, Michael and Holly and Annette and I go for a curry round their house. We see Annette's sister, Ruth and Joe on several occassions and Rory and Bernice at Salsa and for drinks. I pop in to see my brother Alan and family, but don't get to see my other brother, Carl, who's in Somerset.

We take my grandmother out for a 'Tex-Mex meal in Worthing , see Annette's auntie, Alison and family before their move to Hong Hong and the rest of my family... auntie Tina, Frank, David and families at my auntie Lisa's house and Annette's neice, Felicity and son, Stanley!!! Phew!


Oxford

My third Saturday and Annette is joining me on a special school trip to Oxford. A nearly three-hour coach ride there and back meaning time in this most ancient and famous of English cities is of the essence! Unbelievably it's the first time here for both of us, so we're quite looking forward to it...

First stop is punting on the river and with 40 foreign teenagers this is no mean feat! The river Ouse is a bit out of the historic centre and not quite as pretty as Cambridge...

After lunch we go on 'the Oxford story' tour - a tour of the 'actual' city would have been better! However we have a pleasant enough day, there is some beautiful architecture here, my personal favourite being the Palladian inspired 'Radcliffe Camera', which is a real gem! The surrounding countryside is very beautiful too





The Parsonage

Now here was a pleasant surprise... We decide to take Annette's mum and dad out for a meal to say thank you for having us. We choose the Parsonage an Tarring high street for its traditional, quality and reputation and it doesn't disappoint! A beautiful 500 year old, so 'actual' Tudor, house that was converted from a museum into a restaurant in 1987 - when I was growing up in nearby Thomas-A-Beckett and would cycle past on many occasions...

We have a very enjoyable evening and the food is excellent! 

And that was that... four weeks in the UK. Some sun (and some flooding!) some Salsa, two trips to London, two days in Cambridge, Oxford, lots of family, a bit of work, getting paid to drink beer! Bacon and eggs, grape nuts, hot java lava (it's the only coffee I can now drink in England) crumpets and England beating the West Indies at cricket... for a change! 

Rule Britannia!



(Original journal entry 18/8/04)


151. Parco di Rimigliano

Our last week in Italy before leaving for a 4 week stint working in the UK is madness! Split between lazing by the outdoor pool in Greve and rushing about buying last minute presents and clothes shopping in the sales. We have time to pop open Annette's award wining Brunello wine – La Poderina's 1997 Poggio Banale! Which is rather spectacular...

On our last full day, a wednesday, we head to the coast for our last day at the beach, for a while anyway! Today's choice is the beach at Rimigliano, which is set amongst beautiful pine woods between San Vicenzo and Baratti.

We make the most of the sun, sand and sea and even have time to pop into San Vincenzo for a slap up fish supper.

Last work day tomorrow and then we're off to Blighty!