Lee's Tuscan Odyssey: August 2013

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo

150. Badia a Passignano 'Anniversary edition'

This year we've decided to have our anniversary meal a week early, as on 24th we will be in the UK.

The lure of Badia a Passignano is just too much! We came here last April with Phil and Leonie and were mesmerised...

We make the half hour drive to this beautiful area of Chianti, it's a balmy evening and we have a very romantic outside table. While checking out the mouthwatering menu we share a glass of Krug champagne to get the juices going!

Complimentary hors d'ouevres of some homemade breads and 3 different olive oils set the mood for our first courses.

I have fusilli with guinea fowl in a nutmeg and parmesan sauce, while Annette goes for the red mullet with 3 different sauces. Of course we have a bottle of the local red wine! A 2001 Chianti Classico Badia a Passignano riserva.

For main course, Annette has stuffed pigeon with asparagus wrapped in pancetta. I have a veal fillet rolled in spices with a vegetable caponata. Both dishes are sublime.

On to dessert and Annette cannot resist the 'cioccolato al cioccolato' a dish of 3 different chocolate desserts. Last year I spotted an amazing looking cheese trolley and vowed to try it if we ever returned... I choose about 10 different cheeses and as a real treat order a glass of their premier cru wine, Solaia (which usually sells for around 100euro a bottle) it goes down a treat!

With the coffee they bring out a selection of chocolates, including little choc-ices and cherries dipped in chocolate! Mmm

Without doubt it's the best meal we've ever had!

Happy 5th Anniversary!

Protected fortress,

Passignano's wealth reveales,

Overflowing feast...

(Lee's Haiku - 17/7/04)

149. Alicia Keys at the Lucca Summer Festival

Last year we came here for two concerts and saw Alanis Morrisette and Craig David. This year we choose just one, American queen of R&B, Alicia Keys. There is only so much time...

We drive up in the early evening in time for our customary pizza stop, the town is buzzing and it's a balmy evening. Ms Keys is looking stunning behind her grand piano and treats us to a very steamy evening of her many hits, at one point even playing the piano while laying on it!

We cool down with some ice creams and disappear into the still warm Tuscan evening...

148. Porto Venere, Liguria

Summer is now in full flow, poppies have given way to fields of tall, bright yellow sunflowers and we have decided to take a dip into the Liguria region of Italy. Liguria actually borders Tuscany to the north, so is one of our neighbours! We came to this region two years ago on a day trip to Cinque Terre and I would like to visit Portofino one day, but today we settle on the less well known Portovenere.

The drive is surprisingly short and in no time we are walking along the very picturesque harbour, sipping on cocktails and settling down on a pebbly beach. The weather is gorgeous and we spend the afternoon swimming and diving off the rocks. We enjoy an ice cream and decide to stay in the evening for a slap-up fresh fish dinner.

Our first taste of Portovenere is a success, it's a very pretty, quaint and unspoilt harbour town of pastel coloured houses set amongst a rugged coastline somewhat reminiscent of Amalfi.

Aphrodite sleeps,

on still Ligurian shores,

awakens passion.

(Lee's Haiku)

147. Jazz in Prato

Another summer festival, this time in neighbouring Prato at the modern Pecci art museum. There is an outdoor amphitheatre.

We are checking out Ravi Coltrane, son of the famous saxophonist and one of my heroes, John Coltrane.

It's a balmy evening and the man is on form and performs an impressive concert with his quartet of musicians...

Here's the link to the concert details

http://www.jazzitalia.net/viscomunicato.asp?ID=2702

146. Sailing at Baratti and dinner in Campiglia Marritima

After my May 2nd trip to Baratti, where my good friend Alberto only took his 'one-man' boat out, this time he's got the 4 1/2 metre two-man boat rigged up and I'm ready for my first sailing lesson...

Again we've been invited to the lovely beach at Baratti and dinner afterwards in the gorgeous Campiglia Marritima. This time we finally make it...

We have a wonderful time, meeting three other couples from various towns in Tuscany, sunbathing, chatting and of course my maiden voyage in the very beautiful gulf of Baratti. We see some big jellyfish, 'shark island'(apparently someone was eaten by a shark many years ago!) fortunately for me there isn't much wind, so the sailing is slow!

After a long, hot day on the beach we drive up to Campiglia and enjoy a wonderful meal together... cooked by capitain Alberto of course!

145. Return to Cala Violina

Can you believe that it's only a year ago that we discovered this little corner of paradise. Definitely Tuscany's best kept secret. Even most Florentines have never heard of it! Only the most outgoing locals will admit to its existence in oft hushed tones...

It was only last August that we were being chased off the beach by a wasp invasion. This time we have a perfect 35°C day, not a cloud in the sky and no breeze.

After our long drive from Florence and stop for picnic, we find a car parking space and make the half hour trek through dense Mediterranean scrub. We fall onto the powdery white sand and chill out for the afternoon, total relaxation in paradise...

Afterwards we drive back to San Vincenzo and enjoty a 'Caciucco' fish supper and browse round the late night shops,which open from 9.30pm to midnight! Oh I do like Italian summers and the only question is when can we come back?

(Original journal entry 25/6/04)

144. San Giovanni and Ferrari 275

San Giovanni

Unfortunately this year I'm working on Florence's patron saints day, San Giovanni. Most of my work this year has been with Wall Street and in Prato today it's not a holiday...

I even have to rush back to catch the fireworks at 10.00pm. Annette has saved me a spot on the walls of the river Arno, just passed the Uffizi gallery. We enjoy this year's edition and afterwards stop for some Sangria at our 'local' Spanish restaurant.

Ferrari 275

The Ferrari 275 owners club is celebrating it's 40th Anniversary and has decided to stop for the evening in the Grand hotel in Piazza Ognisanti. They park their cars up in the square, for the general public to oggle... there are about 60 classic beauties to admire from all over the world and with price tags from £300,000 - £2 million it's quite an expensive car park!

(Original journal entry 24/6/04)