Lee's Tuscan Odyssey: July 2013

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo

143. Mozart in Boboli Gardens

Every summer as part of the Classical music season, there are some free concerts, operas and ballets around the city. This evening the local 'orchestra della Toscana' are performing three pieces by Mozart.

The concert starts at 9.30pm and it's first come first served! I arrive nice and early to save some seats. By 8.30 when Annette arrives all the seatys are filled up!

The concert is in front of the Buontalenti Grotto and is a very beautiful setting. We have brought some salad and white wine and settle down to enjoy the evening...

Two of the pieces feature flute and bassoon solos and the evening goes smoothly.

(Original journal entry 21/6/04)

142. Monte Morello

The weather in June has kind of settled to a pleasant, if not spectacular 25°C. Days are a mixture of sun and cloud, slighty frustrating for trips to the beach or pool. There are however plenty of other things to do.

This afternoon we decide on a lazy drive up to Monte Morello, which at 2,600 feet (that's nearly as high as Mt. Snowdon in Wales!) is Florence's highest spot. Needless to say the views are pretty amazing. We can see most of the city and surrounding hills from up here, including the dome!

We walk up to a grassy spot and settle on our trusty rug for some reading and relaxation.

Far too difficult to cook this evening we drive up to the Forte Belvedere to the south of Florence and find a cozy enoteca cxalled 'Fuori Porta', we indulge in some glases of wine and cold cuts... a good find

(Original journal entry 20/6/04)

141. Luminari di San Ranieri - Pisa

After witnessing the San Giovanni celebrations in Florence and in particular the fireworks on several occasions, this year we've decided to check out neighbouring Pisa's version of their patron saint's day, or evening to be specific, the lesser known San Ranieri.

We make the 80 km drive to Pisa after work and arrive at around 9.30 pm. Of course we are usually here to visit the leaning tower with guests, so it's interesting to see another side of the city. On this special day parking is a problem, but eventually we find a space! The centre of Pisa has been turned into a huge street market and the place is heaving with bodies!

We head to the river Arno, where all the action seems to be and are greeted with a spectacular sight... all along the river candles have been placed around doors and windows - apparently some 70,000 of them! illuminating the buildings. At just after 11 pm there is a firework display and we both agree it is a little better than the one in Florence!

The celebrations continue well after midnight and we stay soaking up the atmosphere...

Viva Pisa!

(Original journal entry 16/6/04)

140. Party time in June

It's the end of our annual courses at school, the heat has been turned up a notch and all the outside concerts and festivals are beginning to start... it's party time!

Wednesday
evening and a trip to Prato for a pizza courtesy of one of my employers, Wall st. and boss, Luigi

Saturday
evening and my teenage class have booked a table in Florence for another pizza.

Sunday
evening and I'm at work colleague and friend, Peter's house for a meal and a heartbreaking 2-1 loss for England at the Euro's against Portugal.

Thursday
evening and we've been invited to a barbecue at Scottish friend, Caroline's house in the hills of Montelupo. It's their end of term party and we enjoy the food, company and views.

Saturday
and the party moves to work colleague, Alison's house in the fashionable, Borgo Pinti in Florence. An evening of music, food, drink and friends goes on till the wee hours and we finally stagger home some time after 3 am!

The Heat is on!

This evening we are in Piazza S.S. Annunziata to watch Italy vs Bulgaria on the big screen, even though Italy win, Denmark and Sweeden play out a calculated draw and Italy are out of the Euros... our local team, Fiorentina eing demoted to serie C and B for match fixing have been promoted back to serie A, so some good news!

Forza Viola!

(Original journal entry 20/6/04)

139. 'Secret' San Gimignano

Some lesson cancellations and all of a sudden we have a free day... yippee!

In desperate need of some mugs, there is only one shop on the agenda and it's in the gorgeous medeival town of San Gimignano.

We're usually here with guests so it's a nice chance to spend a day at our favourite town just wandering at our own pace. We park up and find a new small square, San Agostino, where we enjoy a simple lunch in an outdoor osteria. It's a beautiful, hot, sunny June day, we find our two green mugs fressh off the wheel, in the small pottery shop, Balducci - perfect!

Some browsing in the small art galleries and quaint shops, customary ice creams (Champelmo/Vernaccia white wine/Choco-ginger flavours of course!) follow.

We find a great looking terrace restaurant and agree it would be good for another time and a wonderful garden complete with harpsicord player and the most incredible views of the surrounding countryside...

More days like this please!

(Original journal entry 10/6/04)