133. The Iris garden and Alla Vecchia Bettola

After a busy morning at the office and a nice lunch with colleague Peter and his wife Alessandra at the 'Ristorante Accademia' near San Marco I'm off up Piazzale Michelangelo for a date with some irises!

The Iris garden to be precise. This year I've timed it to perfection as they are just hitting their peak. Irises from all over the world of every colour imaginable... I enjoy a well earned rest amongst these coloured beauties!

As Annette is doing her DELTA lessons this afternoon, while I am sunning myself, I decide a treat is in order...

We check out a restaurant that I've had my eye on for a while. It's in the San Frediano area of Florence and right next door to one of my private student's house and whenever I pass by, scores of locals are packed in and seem to be having a ball!  It's called 'Alla Vecchia Bettola'.

We book a table, which is actually two places at a very long table with other people... The meal is traditional Tuscan and very tasty. We order a pretty impressive bottle of Chianti Classico from Castello di Ama (the same as aone we bought for Annette's brother, Phil) and wonderful it is too!  A future local???

132. Castello di Celsa

Open Gardens and Courtyards

Today many villas, gardens and castles in Tuscany are opening their very substantial gates to the general public for free!

I've decided on this rather spectacular castle just south of Siena. It's an hours drive an a bit tricky to find. Eventually I happen upon the tiny town of Sovacille and spot some cars parked up down a long drive... bingo!

The Castle dates from the 13th century and was refurbished in the 16th century and the Italian gardens replanted and restored to their former Rennaisance glory after the second world war.

It's a balmy spring day and the extensive grounds are beautiful. I've brought my sketch pad and relax on the rug and put it to some good use. The castle is covered in ivy and some pretty yellow spring flowers carpet the lawns. I enjoy a couple of hours in this truly paradisaical setting...

131. Centovini at the Certosa

Saturday afternoon and it's my first wine festival of the year. Centovini or 100 wines is a festival being held by Vinoteca al Chianti and they are celebrating only their second edition of a festival celebrating Italian wines made from only indigenous grapes... so no Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Chardonnay then!

It's being held on the very pretty terrace of the Relais Certosa hotel in Galluzo to the south of Florence. There are actually 129 wines including a special top 20 selection. There are also cheeses also coldcuts on hand to compliment the Sparkling, white, red and dessert wines.

There are plenty of Brunellos, Barolos and Barbarescos to keep me happy and also some more unusual wines from around the boot to try.

129, Boating in Baratti 130, The Mille Miglia

Saturday at the monastery, Sunday at the beach - my weekend is kind of in reverse, as the weather is slightly better today. Good enough for a spot of sunbathing, a dip in the ocean and some sailing...

I have been invited to the small seaside resort of Baratti by some of my private students, Nadia and Alberto. I arrive nice and early and drive up to Populonia, an ancient Etruscan stronghold overlooking the bay of Baratti.

                                         The tower at Populonia


I meet Nadia and Alberto on the beach. They are part of a local sailing club and there are lots of small boats  in a pine woods which leads onto a pretty, sandy beach. We spend a very enjoyable day and they even introduce me to some of their friends.

In the evening they invite me up for supper to their holiday house which is in the nearby town of Campiglia Marritima. We came here last year. It's an old mining village that has now been restored with many holiday homes.

                                          The view from Campiglia Marritima


 Before I head back home I pop into San Vincenzo, it's already packed with people even though it's only the beginning of May!




130. The Mille Miglia


Another Annette-less weekend as she is still studying...

After a Saturday morning at work I stay in town and check out this year's 'Mille miglia' the classic car race as it crosses the Arno on the Ponte Santa Trinita and goes towards Piazza Signoria.

Many of the cars stop on the bridge to take photos of themselves with the Ponte Vecchio behind!

An added extra as the cars are stopped to allow the president of China and his cavalcade to stop - I see him waving from his limousine! I wonder who we'll see next year?

                                                             (Original journal entry 2/5/04)

128. Mont Oliveto Maggiore and Montalcino

May starts here! It's Audrey Hepburn film season at the British Institute library and all my weekends are booked up!

Today is the first of May, which in Italy is traditionally the workers bank holiday and spent together with families. However I'm on my own today as Annette has to study all weekend... My chosen destination is a famous monastery south of Siena.

Monte Oliveto Maggiore

 The drive south of is Siena is very panoramic, with the gentle rolling green hills of the Val d'Orcia contrasting with the very austere grey, clay of the Crete Senese. The red-bricked monastery is set in a very pretty wood.

Monte Oliveto is actually a Benedictine monastery dating back to 1313 and has some of the most famous frescoes of the Rennaisance, executed by Cortona native, Luca Signorelli and the affectionately named 'il Sodoma' real name Giovanni Antonio Bazzi.

  I join a guided tour and enjoy the very beautiful and extensive colourful fresco cycle...

Afterwards I head  on to the hill-top town of Montalcino for only my second visit. I am of course in Brunello wine heaven and after tasting half a dozen samples, buy a couple of bottles.

 In the fortezza courtyard there is a huge marquee and a special dinner and band as it's the first of May, so I decide to stay and pick up my plate of wild boar pasta and glass of Brunello...

 Good timing or what?