The Cappella della Madonna di Vitaleta on the road from Pienza to San Quirico d'Orcia

In 2001 I came to live in Italy. I had some fun, wrote a journal and this is the blog of my story...

"Tuscany is a state of grace. The countryside is so lovingly designed that the eye sweeps the mountains and valleys without stumbling over a single stone. The lilt of the rolling green hills, the upsurging cypresses, the terraces sculptured by generations that have handled the rocks with skillful tenderness, the fields geometrically juxtaposed as though drawn by a draughtsman for beauty as well as productivity; the battlements of castles on the hills, their tall towers standing grey-blue and golden tan among the forest of trees, the air of such clarity that every sod of earth stands out in such dazzling detail. The fields ripening with barley and oats, beans and beets. The grape-heavy vines espaliered between the horizontal branches of silver-green olive trees, composing orchards of webbed design, rich in intimation of wine, olive oil and lacy-leaf poetry. Tuscany untied the knots in a man's intestines, wiped out the ills of the world. Italy is the garden of Europe, Tuscany is the garden of Italy, Florence is the flower of Tuscany." Irving Stone from my favourite book " The Agony and the Ecstacy" A fictional biography of Michelangelo



166. Orvieto

For the last few weeks I've been wanting to go to Orvieto, but a spot of flu, some inclement weather and a party at my good friend Alberto's have held off our visit. However this weekend the time is right...

On Saturday we finally celebrated Annette's diploma course pass with a whole bottle of 'Gosset' champagne and today we've risen in time to make the two-hour journey into Umbria.






Orvieto is halfway between Florence and Rome and my interest in the place goes back to 1996 when I did an Italian course in England. The course book was based on this medieval town and its inhabitants.








We arrive just before 2pm and so are pushing it a bit for lunch. We park up and start walking and find a restaurant that looks ok. It takes the waiter ages to come and then ages to bring some water and we haven't even ordered! After about half an hour we decide to leave... We walk on and hit the jackpot! A very elegant osteria, La Buca Di Bacco. We order the five-course truffle menu with a crisp white wine from Antinori's Umbrian estate... and are taken to heaven!











After this mammoth feast we fall out onto the cobbled streets and wander. Orvieto turns out to be a very beautiful city with some fascinating, crafty looking shops. There are several deep wells and Etruscan tombs and ruins. We check out the imposing gothic revival cathedral with its gold mosaic facade and I take a peak inside. There are some wonderful, colourful frescoes by Fra Angelico, Luca Signorelli and Benozzo Gozzoli.







We are also treated to a Morgan owners club meeting in the main square, with dozens of these classic beauties parked up. We decide to ascend this cool tower called  'Torre del Moro' for a panoramic view of the surrounding area, the sun is just going down and we witness a great sunset over the rolling Umbrian hills... breathtaking! The walk down is a little easier, but worth the effort.





In need of some refreshment before heading home, we stumble across this great cafe with some soft, comfortable chairs to sink down into while enjoying our alcohol-spiked coffees! A very pleasant end to a great first visit to this enchanting city.




                 
                                                       (Original journal entry 17/10/04)

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